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The beautiful dive watch: Armand Nicolet JS9

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Armand Nicolet is a Swiss company you might not have heard about, but one you should know. They do things a bit differently in Tramelan. It’s time to answer the question, what do you get with a large thin dive watch that has more in common with a Royal Oak than a Submariner? This is the JS9, powered by the Calibre AN2846-9. Its a beautiful blue dial wrapped in 316L stainless steel capped with the blue ceramic turning bezel.

It’s so blue.
The profile feels familiar. It’s very comfortable.

Let’s get this part out of the way. Why would I compare Armand Nicolet’s JS9 with a Royal Oak or Patek? It comes down to the mid-case shape and lugs. The side profile of the case and lugs are completely flat under the bezel, with sharp edge lugs that angle down to the bracelet.

I also mentioned that it’s a rather large, thin watch. When I put it on my wrist, conversations I had went a little like this:

“What is that?”
“Armand Nicolet.”
“They’re huge!”

And they are. The case is 44mm wide, and 13mm tall. If you like a big crown, this one is the biggest. The crown is not only large at 8mm, it’s wrapped in a synthetic cover for most of its body, giving an even larger gripping surface.

The bezel is short and is at a steeper angle up to the crystal than some other popular dive watches whose name begins with ‘R’. The sapphire crystal also has an angled edge, and looks just fine sitting atop the the bezel’s blue ceramic ascent.

The bracelet is well-made, and does not grab or pull hair. Its end links are solid, but rather than be a combined end and middle link to the rest of the bracelet, they have an articulated middle link, like Tudor, or like the bracelets of old with hollow links had. It’s a cleaner look for those who don’t like a middle link to stand proud of the wrist. Instead, the bracelet lies flat against the wrist as it descends gracefully from the lugs of the watch. I have one complaint about the bracelet, and a separate one about the end links. The bracelet is what some people call a suicide link: The links are not held together with a single screw. Instead, they use a screw from one side, a socket that the screw threads into from the other. This requires two screwdrivers, one from each side, to remove or re-attach a link. The issue is that trying to keep two screwdrivers straight, while in their tiny slots can be difficult. If one slips out, it’s liable to scratch the side of the bracelet or stab your other hand. The good news is that once it’s adjusted, it’s very comfortable. Regarding the end links: The lugs have beveled ends, and the end link does not, so there’s a bit of a jarring contrast where the end link doesn’t have the same profile as the lug. The bracelet uses a very nicely done butterfly deployant clasp, in line with the decision that this is more sport than dive. But it does have real dive chops, being resistant to 1000 feet / 330 meters.

The beveled end of the lugs is a continuation of the beveled top surface of the case, which is beveled all the way around on the crown guard side of the watch, but due to the way that the bezel is slightly recessed in the case between the lugs, the bevel disappears when the bezel meets the case edge on the non-crown side. It works well.

The indices on the dial are very much worth discussing. Instead of the normal dots and bars lume plots or lume filled in forged applied indices in the familiar circles and bars, these are diamond cut and polished indices, bars, that are arranged in pairs of horizontal aligned bars ringing the dial, with vertical pairs of bars at 6 and 12. The result is serious bling catching the light.

I love how the inside of the clasp is engine turned.

The movement is a Swiss caliber that’s been given Armand Nicolet’s own name, a Calibre AN2846-9. This is actually an ETA 2846 updated and decorated in Armand Nicolet’s factory. Even though it lives encased in the stainless steel back, not visible to the eye, it’s a nice, reliable movement.

There’s a lot to like here. A Swiss diver, ceramic bezel, diamond cut hands and indices, with a huge crown and thin case. Honestly, I like it a lot, and it’s not an imitator of much of anything. I love that they made a dive watch and eschewed the usual, the normal dive watch recipe. This is a watch to be proud of. If you’d like to wear one, too, 1700 CHF gets you into the club.

Watch Overview

  • Brand & Model: Armand Nicolet JS9 A480AGU-BU-MA4480AA
  • Price: pricing starts at 1700 CHF or $1710 USD
  • Who we think it might be for: You like a large diver that doesn’t look like a Submariner, but is beautiful and tasteful, just the same.
  • Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen?: It was a joy wearing it for this review.
  • If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Anything that can be done to make the taper from lug to clasp even a little thinner. A thinner clasp is even more comfortable.
  • What spoke to me the most about this watch: The jewelry and precision of it. Everything about this watch is made so beautifully tightly, well-constructed, well-finished, with good choices everywhere.

Tech Specs from Armand Nicolet

  • Case size: 44mm
  • Height: 13mm
  • Case material: steel
  • Crystal: sapphire
  • Strap: stainless steel with deployant clasp, also available on rubber.
  • Movement: Swiss-made AN2846-9

 

 


Casio Edifice ECB800DB-1A is motorsport-inspired but can it keep up?

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Casio produces a bunch of lines of watches, all aimed at different segments of the market. The Edifice line is Casio’s mens line, aimed at mid-range, activity and vibe-inspired looks. They’re typically not too pricey, feature stylistic flairs, and add in a bit of new technology. The creatively named ECB800DB-1A is a motosport inspired design, with looks that stand out with race-inspired design.

Inspired by elements found in motorsports such as speed, intelligence, and innovation, this smartly-designed men’s watch offers a bold design and enhanced timekeeping capabilities through smartphone connectivity.

First Impressions

This thing is big, shiny, and has very bold features. I’m immediately struck by the large subguage at the 6oclock position, with interesting markings for apparently speed and.. is that.. a fuel gauge? Or perhaps a solar charging battery meter? The black LCD display looks interesting with its cutoff top corners. Activating the light.. it’s shiny! There appears to be a white LED behind the LCD, and a white LED shining brightly onto the analog face of the watch. The lighting works, but there’s a ton of glare. The metal bracelet.. shiny, and hollow.

On the Wrist

Once sized, the ECB800DB-1A metal bracelet fits just fine. The clasp of the bracelet is a single locking design, and the bracelet appears to be hollow. It looks nice and shiny on first glance, but as I was handling it to size it, and wearing it, it becomes apparent that this bracelet is hollow, fairly lightweight, and maybe not the most solid. It generally works and fits the watch, but it’s only as good as a glance.

The watch is big and bold – the chunky chromed pushes stick out a bit, and in wearing the watch you’re certainly making a statement. I haven’t always been the biggest fan of analog/digital hybrids, but in wearing this watch for a week, I appreciated the easy legibility of the LCD, and the quick glances of the analog hands. The carbon fiber texture of the face does give it the motorsport aesthetic, and I’m sure if I was “down at the track” it would blend in just fine.

Feature Review

  • Black ion plated bezel – Dark and shiny, but picks up fingerprints fast.
  • Stainless Steel Band – Hollow, but shiny and fitting with the style of the watch.
  • Solar powered – I LOVE solar powered for electronic watches. Now that solar power can be essentially hidden behind the printed face, I think all electronic watches should have this. It seems to work well.
  • Double LED light
    LED light for the face – Yikes – what glare! This is just a small square LED positioned at the 7oclock position on the edge of the face, which glares across the face of the watch. Sure, it illuminates the hands, but there’s so much glare, it’s almost unusable. Way too bright, way too much glare. Additionally, that raw LED is not covered up or hidden.. just a big yellow chunk of LED sitting there. This could be done much better.
    LED backlight for the digital display . Yep, it works, but the white led illumination is not anywhere near as even as an EL backlight. Additionally, the LED shows off the rough edges of the LCD display. Kinda unpolished.
  • Mobile link (Wireless linking using Bluetooth®) – It works, and pairs with my smartphone. But the utility of the app is marginal, and not very well thought out. Not super user friendly, and seems to value style and looking technical over actually being usable. Of particular note, the keyboard that’s used for naming alarms is a proprietary in-app keyboard that barley works, NOT the native iOS iPhone keyboard which is usually presented for typing in apps. I’ve never seen an iOS app use a proprietary keyboard instead of apple’s native iOS keyboard.. how is this even acceptable on the app store?
  • World time – Works, and shows the city.
  • 1/1000-second stopwatch – Yep.
  • Target Time alarm – Yep, i suppose if you were a motosport spectator? But if you’re a racecar driver, you’re never actually going to use this to time your laps.
  • Countdown timer – Yep
  • 5 multi-function alarms (with daily, 1 time, schedule)
  • Hourly time signal – Yep
  • Hand shift feature (Hands move out of the way to provide an unobstructed view of digital display contents) – Essential for a hybrid like this
  • Battery level indicator -There we go
  • Full auto-calendar (to year 2099) – Yes
  • 12/24-hour format – Yes
  • Button operation tone on/off – Yes, glad they have this.
  • Power Saving (display goes blank and hands stop to save power when the watch is left in the dark) – Cool feature, but am i really going that long without seeing the sun? I hope not.
  • Regular timekeeping – It works!

Final Thoughts

  • Brand & Model: Casio Edifice ECB800DB-1A
  • Price: USD$350
  • Who we think it might be for: Motorsport enthusiast looking for their first themed watch, who wants some nifty features to show friends, but who will actually use the watch as a daily beater.
  • If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Fix the backlight to eliminate all of the glare, and finish the integration of the LCD Module to hide the edges better. Improve the app look and functionality – get rid of that non native keyboard, make the app actually easy to use. There’s so much more you can do with an LCD display on a watch and a bluetooth link – unleash it all!
  • What spoke to me the most about this watch: I appreciate they’re going for a somewhat accessibly priced theme watch, with looks good enough for a construction site boardroom, solar power, and minor bluetooth features.

Specs

  • Neobrite
  • Black ion plated bezel
  • Mineral Glass
  • 100-meter water resistance
  • Case / bezel material: Stainless steel
  • One-touch 3-fold Clasp
  • Stainless Steel Band
  • Solar powered
  • Double LED light
    LED light for the face (Full auto LED light, Super illuminator, selectable illumination duration (1.5 seconds or 3 seconds), afterglow)
    LED backlight for the digital display (Full auto LED light, Super illuminator, selectable illumination duration (1.5 seconds or 3 seconds), afterglow)
  • Mobile link (Wireless linking using Bluetooth®)
  • World time
    39 time zones* (39 cities + coordinated universal time), daylight saving on/off, auto summer time (DST) switching, Home city/World time city swapping
    *May be updated when connected to a smartphone.
  • 1/1000-second stopwatch
    Measuring capacity:
    00’00”000~59’59”999 (for the first 60 minutes)
    1:00’00”0~23:59’59”9 (after 60 minutes)
    Measuring unit:
    1/1000 second (for the first 60 minutes)
    1/10 second (after 60 minutes)
    Measuring modes: Elapsed time, lap time
    Recorded data: Up to 200 records (measurement lap times)
    Target Time alarm
  • Countdown timer
    Measuring unit: 1/10 second
    Countdown range: 24 hours
    Countdown start time setting range: 1 second to 24 hours (1-second increments, 1-minute increments and 1-hour increments)
  • 5 multi-function alarms (with daily, 1 time, schedule)
  • Hourly time signal
  • Hand shift feature (Hands move out of the way to provide an unobstructed view of digital display contents)
  • Battery level indicator
  • Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
  • 12/24-hour format
  • Button operation tone on/off
  • Power Saving (display goes blank and hands stop to save power when the watch is left in the dark)
  • Regular timekeeping
    Analog: 3 hands (hour, minute (hand moves every 10 seconds), second), 1 dial (speed indicator)
    Digital: Hour, minute, second, pm, month, date, day
  • Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month (with no mobile link function)
  • Approx. battery operating time:
    6 months on rechargeable battery (operation period with normal use without exposure to light after charge)
    19 months on rechargeable battery (operation period when stored in total darkness with the power save function on after full charge)
  • Size of case : 53.5 X 49.2 X 13.7 mm
  • Total weight : 168 g
  • LED:White

 

Hands on with the Nite Alpha-202

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Tritium watches have always fascinated me. I have reviewed both Traser and Isobrite. So when I got the chance to review this Nite Alpha watch, I was pretty excited. This watch has two things I like most; tritium gas tubes, and it’s a dive watch. I wore this watch for a week straight and so far this has been a great watch for me. Read on and see if you feel the same.

The Dial

I really like the look of a nice blue sunburst dial and this one does not disappoint. The Nite Alpha is perfect for diving. It is simple, uncluttered, and very easy legible all lighting. The hour makers, hands, and bezel marker are lumed and will glow in the darkest areas without needing any light to charge. I will explain how that works later. This is a simple three-hander with date. The hands on this watch are mounted to a very reliable Swiss made Rhonda 715Li quartz movement.

The Case

The Nite Alpha case is made from stainless steel with a brushed finish. I really can’t find any issues with this case. Water resistance is a serious 990ft which will handle any type of diving you will ever do. This has a screw down crown and screw down case back. The bezel uses a ceramic insert which is very durable and more resistant to scratching. If you are like me, and sometimes accidentally smack your watch on something, you will appreciate the ceramic bezel. The bezel is 120 click, uni directional, and has no play at all. Movement is very tight feeling but still easy to rotate.

The Strap

I wear my watch from the moment I wake up to when I go back to sleep so comfort is very important for me. Nite uses polymer straps on this Alpha and I really like how it feel. The strap mounts perfectly to the case and since the lugs curve down on each side the watch just wraps around the wrist. Wearing this all day, every day, for a week now, I hardly notice it. I am not sure how their stainless steel bands are but I really like this polymer strap.

That incredible lume!

Using GTLS(Gaseous Tritium Light Source) for lume this watch is absolutely amazing in the dark. The wastch uses T100 tritium vials for lume. The glow comes from tiny glass vials filled with tritium gas, which is an isotope of hydrogen. These vials are coated with a phosphorescent paint which react with the tritium gas. The most common tritium watches use T25 tritium tubes which have 25 millicures of tritium gas. On the Nite watches, they use T100 tritium which has 4 times the amount of tritium gas. This creates two great things. The watch glows four times more brightly, and it also last twice as long. Most T25 tubes will glow up to 25 years but the T100 tubes can glow up to 50 years.

Overall Impression

Think its pretty obvious, I like this watch. As a certified master diver I understand the need for a good dive watch for backup. This is made for diving and I would trust this one. Although I normally don’t like quartz watches I feel there is do much good with this one that I could accept it. Still would like to see this one with an automatic movement. The price on this Nite Alpha is $580 USD and I feel that’s not a bad deal for a watch like this. If you like what you see go check them out at nitewatches.com.

Review Summary

  • Brand and model: Nite Alpha
  • Price: $580
  • Who’s it for?  Divers
  • Would I wear it?  Anytime
  • What I’d change: Like to see it in a automatic.
  • The best thing about it: One of the most comfortable watches.

Tech Specs from Nite

  • 42mm 316 Steel case
  • Swiss Made Ronda 715i Quartz Movement
  • Sapphire with triple anti-reflective coating
  • 10 Year Battery Life
  • 990ft Water resistance
  • T100 Swiss Made GTLS illumination
  • Screw Down Crown
  • Blue Polymer Strap

 

The Casio Rangeman GPR-B1000 is a big watch for big adventures

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The Casio Rangeman GPR-B1000 is comically large. That’s the first thing you notice about it. Based on the G-Shock design, this massive watch is 20.2 mm thick and about 60 mm in diameter, a true dinner plate of a watch. Inside the heavy case is a dense collection of features that will make your next outdoor adventure great.

GPR-B1000, which I took for an extended trip through Utah and Nevada, is an outdoor marvel. It has all of the standard hiking watch features including compass, barometer, altimeter, and solar charging, but the watch also has built-in GPS mapping, logging, and backtracking. This means you can set a destination and the watch will lead you and you can later use your GPS data to recreate your trek or even backtrack out of a sticky situation.

This is not a sports watch. It won’t track your runs or remind you to go to your yoga class. Instead it’s aimed at backwoods hiker or off piste skier who wants to get from point A to point B without getting lost. The watch connects to a specialized app that lets you set the destinations, map your routes, and even change timezones when the phone wakes up after a flight. These odd features make this a traveler’s dream.

The watch design is also very unique for Casio. Instead of a replaceable battery the device charges via sunlight or with an included wireless charger. It has a ceramic caseback – a first for Casio – and the charger fits on like a plastic parasite. It charges via micro USB.

It has a crown on the side that controls scrolling through various on-screen menus and the rest of the functions are access easily from dedicated buttons around the bezel. The watch is mud and water proof to 200 meters and it can survive in -20 degrees Celsius. It is also shock resistant.

The $800 GPR-B1000 is a beefy watch. It’s not for the faint of wrist and definitely requires a bit of dedication to wear. I loved it while hiking up and down canyons and mountains and it was an excellent travel companion. One of the coolest features is quite simply being able to trust that the timezone is correct as soon as you land in Europe from New York.

That said you should remember that this watch is for “Adventure Survival” as Casio puts it. It’s not a running watch and it’s not a fashion piece. At $800 it’s one of Casio’s most expensive G-Shocks and it’s also the most complex. If you’re an avid hiker, however, the endless battery, GPS, and trekking features make it a truly valuable asset.

Diving in with the Spinnaker Bradner

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This is the first compressor-case dive watch I’ve had the opportunity to review, and though I’ve seen many compressor divers over the years (and even own one myself), I’d never taken the time to actually research the technology. It’s important to note that most compressor diver offerings these days are not true compressors, which is why most of them (including the Bradner) are usually marketed as “compressor style”, or “vintage compressor” watches.

So what exactly is a compressor-case dive watch? Well, it’s actually exactly what it says it is. As opposed to traditional divers which utilize ultra thick cases, crystals, tightly affixed case backs, and screw-down crowns in order to keep water out of the case compressor divers rely on a spring and a special gasket under the case back that compress as the water pressure outside the case increases with depth. The design was patented in the 1950s by Ervin Piqeurez S.A. (EPSA), a watch case maker who provided cases to several different manufacturers.

The original compressor design consisted of the special compressor gasket and spring, a snap-on case back, and a standard non-screw-down crown. The design was refined over the years to include the Compressor 2 with a deeper case allowing for non-round case shapes, and finally the Super Compressor which utilized a screw-down case back (or bayonet in the case of Enicar). Details are a bit thin on the actual depth ratings of the various compressor designs, but the generally accepted number is 600 meters.

Ok, enough with the history lesson. Let’s check out the Spinnaker Bradner. As mentioned above, the Bradner is designed in the tradition of the compressor-style diver, and with it’s 15 ATM (150 meter) depth rating it’s not a true compressor. That’s really not the point though. In today’s vintage-hungry watch market the end goal is to give the wearer (normally a “desk diver” anyway) the feel of a vintage compressor, and succeed in that task the Bradner does with its dual-crown setup and internal, bi-directional rotating bezel.

The very first thing you notice about the Bradner is the seriously cool distortion of the internal bezel caused by the heavily curved edges of the otherwise flat sapphire crystal. Spinnaker really nailed this aspect of the look since there’s nothing that says vintage to me personally more than a little light bending at the perimeter of a watch dial. Forget about faux vintage lume or antique-looking text. Distortion is where it’s at!  The rotating bezel itself looks to be a molded plastic piece consisting of round minute markers, rectangular hashes for the odd-numbered 5-minute indices, and block Arabic numerals for the even-numbered 5-minute indices. All of the indices are raised up from the base of the bezel, with all of the 5-minute indices getting a coating of green Super-Luminova.

Moving in from the bezel – and down one level – we find a 60-minute chapter ring which is really the only negative for me with the Bradner. It’s not that I don’t like the design of the chapter ring itself, but with black printed indices on a dark grey background it’s nearly impossible to see the markers. When setting the time I find myself moving the watch around and contorting my neck to get just the right angle of light on the dial in order to line up the minute hand with the appropriate minute maker on the ring. While I had the black dial in for review, the chapter ring color is consistent across all three dial colors so it’s doubtful that the blue or green dials are any better in this respect.

Stepping down one more level we find the main dial. Square, applied indices are used at each 5-minute internal, with rectangular indices at 6, 9, and 12 and the date window with white surround at three. Dial markings are minimal. The applied and polished Spinnaker text is found at twelve, with “AUTOMATIC” in white and “500FT/150M” in orange at 6 o’clock. The baton minute hand is joined by a hammer or club-style hour hand and a running seconds hand with round, lumed pip with orange outline. All of the applied indices and hands also receive an application of Super-Luminova. Aside from the annoyingly difficult-to-read chapter ring, the dial successfully portrays the vintage diver aesthetic.

The 42mm case consists of a very thin (thereby maximizing dial real estate), 3-angle outer bezel with circular brushing. This sits atop a vertically brushed main case. The Seiko NH35 movement with bespoke black rotor sits behind a screw-down case back with sapphire exhibition window. The main time and date-setting screw-down crown at 4 o’clock is signed with the Spinnaker logo while the non-screw-down crown at 2 o’clock, used to rotate the bezel, is unsigned. The heavily curved lugs drop down below the plane of the case back allowing for a nice wrist-hugging fit.

Rounding out the Spinnaker is a thick, hand-stitched and waterproofed leather strap bearing the Spinnaker text on the underside and vintage-style stitching at the base of each end as well as at the tip of the tail piece. The watch is secured via a brushed pin-buckle. I spent a full month with the Bradner, wearing it on both the included leather strap as well as various nylon and canvas NATOs. At $285 USD, the Spinnaker Bradner represents excellent value for those looking to add a bit of vintage compressor diver spice to their collection. spinnaker-watches.com

Watch Overview

  • Brand & Model: Spinnaker Bradner
  • Price: $285
  • Who we think it might be for: All of you brave and adventurous desk divers out there who love the vintage compressor look.
  • Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen? If I didn’t already own a similar piece from another manufacturer I’d take a pretty hard look at the Bradner.
  • If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Add some contrast between the chapter ring and its markers. It’s just too darn hard to see the indices. I wouldn’t mind seeing a few more coats of lume either. The glow doesn’t last long enough in my book, although I wear my watches to bed and expect them to still be burning bright in the morning so I’m not the best benchmark. Aside from Seiko, Rolex, and Omega, I have yet to come across another brand that can pull this off.

Technical Specifications from Spinnaker

  • CASE
    • Material: Stainless Steel
    • Size: 42mm Diameter, 14mm Thickness, 50mm lug-to-lug
    • Weight: 95 grams
    • Crystal: Sapphire
    • Case Back: Exhibition Screw-Down
    • Water Resistance: 150m
    • Inter-lug Width: 20mm
  • MOVEMENT: Seiko NH35, 24 Jewels
    • Functions: Automatic, Time & Date, Hacking, Hand-Winding
    • Beats Per Hour: 21,600
    • Power Reserve: 46 Hours
  • Strap
    • Material: Water Proof Leather
    • Clasp: Pin Buckle

Hands on with the 46mm Davosa Titanium

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Davosa has a wide range of watches. They have divers, aviation, military, racing, and travel. All are very nice but one really stood out to me. While browsing their site I found the Davosa Titanium 46mm model, and  I could not wait to check this one out. I got in touch with the folks at Davosa and got a loaner in. Let’s check this one out and go over my thoughts on the watch from my time with it.

The Dial

I really like the blue sunburst dials. This one really looks fantastic and with the raised index ring there is a nice three dimensional look to it. The bezel has a bit of an industrial look and seems as though its mounted by all those hex screws (though, in all likelihood, they’re decorative).  The look of the dial is clean and simple with only the yellow seconds hand adding contrast to the blue and white face. So if you like a simple, clean, uncluttered look, this watch is great.

The Case

When they say made from Titanium, they mean it. The case, bezel, screw down crown, and screw down case back are all titanium. Everything fits tightly and the quality is excellent. This case has a lot of cool angles on the bezel, crown guard, and even the lugs. Through the exhibition case back you can see the Swiss made DAV2824 automatic movement which is a ETA 2824 made for Davosa. Measuring in at 46mm this is not a small watch, but I like the way it fit on my wrist. Water resistance is 330ft, which a great swimming or snorkeling around, but I wouldn’t take it diving.Visually this watch is totally cool to me. Its bold but could go just about anywhere if you want.

The Straps

The Davosa Titanium watches come with two straps.  A rubber strap with a cool carbon fiber look and a leather strap. Both feel very good on the wrist, although for my 6.5 inch wrist, they are a little big. Both straps fit perfectly into the lugs which is a very clean look. I also like the fact that even the pin and buckle clasp is made from titanium. Changing the straps is very easy using the included hex drivers. I like that they kept with the whole hex theme here.

The Lume

Using Swiss Superluminova, the glow on this Davosa Titanium looks great. The hour makers, minute and hour hands are all that are lumed and that looks just fine.

Overall impression

I really don’t have anything bad to say about this Davosa Titanium. Build quality is great, looks excellent, and its totally my style of watch. It even comes in a really cool black lacquer looking case. For a price of $949 USD this is a pretty good deal. If you like what you see, go check them out at davosa-usa.com.

REVIEW SUMMARY

  • Brand and model: Davosa Titanium 46mm
  • Price: $949
  • Who’s it for: Someone who wants a bold cool watch.
  • Would I wear it: Absolutely
  • What I’d change: smaller strap
  • The best thing about it: That blue dial.

Tech Specs from Davosa

Case: Titanium
Movement: Automatic, DAV2824
Crystal: anti-glare sapphire
Water Resistance: 10 ATM
Functions Summary: Date
Dial: Blue
Numerals: Arabic, Indices
Luminosity: Superluminova
Case Back: Screw-in
Crown: Screw-down
Strap / Bracelet: Leather, Rubber
Gender: Men
Thickness: 13.9 mm
Width: 48 mm

 

 

The Alpina Startimer flies high with this heritage aviator

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The Alpina Startimer Heritage is an addition to the venerable Startimer line that adds a bit of interest and history to the lineup. This piece has a slightly larger case, and most notable, an interesting rotating inner 24 hour ring, and independent GMT face-hand.

These novelty timepieces are featured with a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal case and an engraved case-back displaying the Alpina logo. This striking oversized case accentuates its presence on the wrist and enhances the originality of its design.

First Impressions

Striking me first is the quasi cushion shaped case – it’s beautiful, slightly elongated, and while it is a bit larger than previous models, doesn’t seem to large on the wrist. Additionally, I was delighted to discover the cool functionality of the inner GMT dial and outer 24 hour ring, working together to give an alternate timezone – but integrated so smoothly you’d never realize what was up until you played with it.

On the Wrist

On the wrist, the Startimer is pretty darn comfortable. The elongated profile makes it a bit more prone to rotating around my medium-sized wrist, however the nice leather strap breaks in quickly and is comfortable immediately. Additionally, I loved the easy legibility, and visual interest of the domed sapphire crystal.

Feature Review

  • Time – Nice sweeping second, and a solid caliber movement to keep precise time.
  • GMT Dial – The implementation of the rotating ring and inner face pointer come together for a slick package – I love how understated this feature is.

Should You Buy It?

If you’re in the market for a heritage brand, a heritage look, and a few useful, understated features, this is a great option. It makes a great weekend companion for the private aviator, or casual office watch. Looking for a serious flight instrument or a daily beater? Keep looking.

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model: Alpina Startimer Heritage
  • Price: USD $1,395
  • Who we think it might be for: Private aviator looking for a cool weekend wearer.
  • If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Publish a bit more info on the GMT features – this is super cool!
  • What spoke to me the most about this watch: The classic aviator style and unique features.

Tech Specs from Alpina

  • CALIBER: AL-555, Automatic caliber
  • JEWELS: 26
  • POWER RESERVE: 38 hours
  • FUNCTIONS: Hours, Minutes, Seconds, GMT, Date
  • MATERIAL: Stainless Steel case with silver internal turning ring
  • CRYSTAL: Scratch – resistant sapphire crystal
  • WATER-RESISTANCE: 10 ATM/100M/330FT
  • DIAMETER: 42mm
  • STRAP MATERIAL: Light brown leather strap

Spending time with the Mido Multifort GMT

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Back in April of this year, I gave you a quick overview on a recently-announced (at that time) watch, the Mido Multifort GMT.  When I wrote that article, I was pairing what I was seeing from photos and the press release, along with my then-recent experience with a non-GMT Mido Multifort.  Now we’re a little bit down the road, and we’ve recently had a loaner in of the Mido Multifort GMT, so we can give you our hands-on thoughts.

What struck me first when I opened up the Mido Multifort GMT was the color combo.  The brand here has gone with a rose gold tone on the case, handset, and indices which is then set off against a rather lovely, almost midnight-blue, dial.  This might sound a bit too dark, but when you consider the Geneva stripes present on the dial, it actually gives you a variety of shades, from lighter to darker.  Think of something like a gradient dial, except it repeats from left to right.  It’s tricky to capture in photos, and even tougher to describe, but take my word for it if you haven’t seen it – this is a lovely, lovely dial treatment.

When you see the 42mm case of the Mido Multifort GMT, you may immediately call to mind any number of compressor-style cases, one of which we just recently reviewed (here, along with a lesson on what a compressor case is).  For me, it actually brings to mind the very first automatic watch that I had, the Magrette Regattare 2011 which was later followed by a dual-time iteration.  While I may not have any dual-crown watches kicking around know, it’s a format I’m rather familiar with.

Here, the lower crown of the Mido Multifort GMT controls the winding and hand-setting for the movement, which is derived from an ETA 2893-2. The that means the upper crown has but a single job – adjusting that chapter ring with the 24-hour scale printed on it.  Sure, with a fixed bezel, you could just adjust the hand, but this (ostensibly) gives you quick changes in either direction, or, if you’re adventurous, actually tracking three time zones (with the hand just working a 24 hour scale that doubles the regular indices).  This upper crown was the one weak point of the watch, in my time with it.

Specifically, I noticed that, when I got the Mido Multifort GMT loaner in, the scale was not quite lined up.  Easy enough, just unscrew the crown, adjust, and then screw back down, right?  And it started out that way, for sure.  However, pushing the crown in wasn’t quite disengaging the stem, so as I was tightening things down, the chapter ring was moving over slightly.  So, it took some playing around with to get it to align as I wanted.  Now, in all likelihood, this action was due to the nature of a loaner watch shipping around and changing hands of reviewers, and heading out on the show circuit. And, a good watchmaker could probably sort it out easily enough.  In the off chance it’s not due to that, though, I thought it would be worthwhile to call out as something a potential buyer should look out for.

Due to the rose gold / dark blue combo, multitude of polished surfaces (on the case, hands, and indices) as well as the croc-embossed leather strap, the Mido Multifort GMT definitely presents as a dressier sort of a GMT (or travel) watch.  With a measurement of 42mm, the watch has some presence (even with the relatively thin bezel), but the overall thickness (just 10.6mm) means it slips under a cuff easily, helping to maintain that dressy look.  Which, frankly, is what the Mido Multifort GMT is intended for.  Once you move that GMT bezel under the sapphire crystal, you’ve gone away from the aesthetic of the sportier GMTs, and that’s ok.  Different styles for different situations, and all that.

For me, that meant that the Mido Multifort GMT was a easy selection for heading into the office, or even with a suit here and there.  Sure, the polished rose gold PVD is a bit flashier than I might personally prefer, but it did not feel like it was ostentatious (if there was a matching bracelet, though, that would be too, too much).  In other words, it felt like just the right amount of flash, particularly if you’re going for a more upmarket look in your style.  In practical terms, all that reflective against the more matte, darker dial, meant reading the time was a breeze, and the red GMT hand is simple to pick out.  The date was easy to read as well, what with the bright white date disc jumping out of the dark dial (yes, a darker wheel would be preferred).

Now, if you think you want to head for that more upmarket look that the Mido Multifort GMT affords, this is a watch that is very much in the realm of affordable luxury.  The price for the version we just reviewed comes in at $1,290, which feels right for this particular example.  I’d just recommend you check out that upper crown when you’re at the shop considering the watch before you get mesmerized by the dial.  While I would not go far as to say that the Mido Multifort GMT is my favorite Mido or favorite GMT, it was a watch I was more than happy to spend time with.  midowatches.com

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model: Mido Multifort GMT
  • Price: $1,290
  • Who’s it for? You like GMT, and you like your compressor-style dual-crown cases.  This is the peanut butter cup you’ve been waiting for.
  • Would I wear it? Very likely, though I’d go for some different case tones
  • What I’d change: Wouldn’t mind some alternative brushed/polished finishing on the dial and a darker date disc
  • The best thing about it: Geneva Stripes are amazing on a dial, and with this deep shade of blue, they really shine
Tech Specs from Mido
  • Movement
    • Mido Caliber 1193 Automatic Movement (ETA 2893-2 base), 111⁄2’’’, Ø25.60 mm, thickness: 4.10 mm, 21 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, NIVACHOC and NIVACOURBE anti-shock system, NIVAFLEX NM mainspring. 
    • Finely decorated Elaboré-grade movement, oscillating weight decorated with Geneva stripes and Mido logo. 
    • Functions: HMSD + GMT. 
    • Adjusted on 4 different positions for high accuracy. 
    • Minimum 42 hours of power reserve.
  • Case
    • Stainless steel 316L with rose gold PVD treatment, Ø42 mm, 2 pieces
    • Sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective treatment on both sides
    • Transparent case back revealing the finely decorated Elaboré-grade movement
    • Engraved serial number
    • Screwed crown and case back
    • Water-resistant up to a pressure of 10 bar (100 m / 330 ft).
  • Strap:  Brown crocodile-look genuine leather strap and stainless steel folding clasp with rose gold PVD treatment.
  • Dial:  Blue, vertical Geneva stripes, individually applied faceted indexes, date at 3 o’clock.
  • Hands:  Diamond polished hour and minute hands, polished seconds hand and red varnished second time zone hand.

The Tissot Seastar 1000 my new go-to entry level diver

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In the pantheon of watches there are a few that stand out. Looking for your first automatic watch? Pick up a Seiko Orange Monster. Looking for a piece with a little history? The Omega Speedmaster is your man. Looking for an entry-level Swiss diver that won’t break the bank? Tissot’s Seastar has always had you covered.

The latest version of the Seastar is an interesting catch. A few years ago – circa 2010 – the pieces were all black with bold hands and a more staid case style. Now Tissot, a Swatch Group brand, has turned the Seastar into a chunkier diver with massive bar hands and case that looks like a steel sandwich.

The $695 Seastar 1000 contains a Powermatic 80/ETA C07.111 movement with an eighty hour power reserve which means the watch contains a massive mainspring that keeps things going for most of three days without winding. The Seastar is also water resistant to 1000 feet thanks to a huge screw down crown and thick casing. The new model has an exhibition back where you can see the rotor spinning over and balance wheel. The watch also has a ceramic bezel, a fairly top-of-the-line feature in an entry level watch.

Tissot has a long and interesting history. Best known for their high-tech T-Touch watches which had touchable crystals, allowing you to activate a compass, barometer, or altimeter with a single tap, the mechanical pieces have always seemed like an afterthought. The company also produces the classic Tissot Le Locle as well as a chronograph that I absolutely loved, the T-Navigator, but that has been discontinued. The Seastar, then, is one of the few mechanical pieces they sell and at sub-$1,000 prices you’re basically getting a Swiss watch with solid power reserve and great looks.

Watch folks I’ve talked to over the past few months see a distinct upturn in the Swiss watch market. Their belief that the Apple Watch is driving sales of mechanical watches seems to be coming true, even if it means cheaper fashion watches are being decimated. Tissot sits in that sweet spot between luxury and fashion, a spot that also contains Tag Heuer and Longines. Ultimately this is an entry level watch for the beginning collector but it’s a beautiful and beefy piece and worth a look.

The Thomas Earnshaw Maskelyne is… pre-aged?

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I’m not quite sure what to make of the Maskelyne Collection from fashion producer Thomas Earnshaw.  It’s a strange mashup of a modern, basic quartz movement, entry level case design and finishes, coupled with a pre-aged old-timey feeling face, and then topped with a high tech blue-reflective crystal. Frankly, I’m not sure where to place this piece.  It’s t0o basic in construction to be a heritage or throwback, and too forced and quartz-y to be a modern classic. That all said, it is certainly a unique take.

The Maskelyne Collection is a stunning series of classic timepieces from modern watchmakers Thomas Earnshaw which pays fitting tribute to one of the great thinkers in British maritime history.

 

On the Wrist

On the wrist, it certainly does make a statement, but I’m not sure what that statement is. Do I wear this with a steampunk outfit at a convention? Do I wear this with my RRL old timey suit? Do I wear this as my every day beater and adopt a fedora? Not sure. Quality wise, the fit and finish is fine – all things are where they should be, and the crystal is actually kinda cool with its blue reflectivity. The strap is nice and soft, and buckles easily. Of note, there’s a weird button at the 2oclock position right above the crown.. it kinda looks like a helium escape valve, but there’s of course no way something like that would be on a watch like this. So, after a small bit of research, I learned that it’s actually a pushed, and strangely only does one thing – adjust the month. Size is actually great for my medium sized wrist, and if this was a different style, the size would be great.

Should You Buy It?

Trapped in the 20s, obsessed with British navy history, or playing lots of old world dressup? Then yep, this would probably be a fun piece to add to your collection. However, if you’re looking for a true heritage watch that will age nicely, keep looking for an automatic. Or, looking for an already aged watch? Shop a used or vintage watch dealer, thrift market, or hop into RRL and get a vintage Rolex – those will keep their cool for years to come.

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model:  Thomas Earnshaw Maskelyne
  • Price: USD $378
  • Who we think it might be for: The entry level steam punk cosplayer?
  • If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Remove that weird blued crystal and replace it with a domed one with no ar coating.
  • What spoke to me the most about this watch: They’re going for a specific style, which I can appreciate. I just don’t know what that style is.

Specs

  • COLLECTION: MASKELYNE
  • MODEL: ES-8031-05
  • MOVEMENT: Japan Quartz 3 Hands Multifunction (Day, Date, Month and Moon Phase)
  • CASE: 304 Stainless Steel
  • CASE DIAMETER (mm): 45
  • CASE THICKNESS (mm): 13
  • CASE SHAPE: Round
  • CASE COLOUR: Ionic Plating – Black
  • DIAL COLOUR: Grey
  • BAND: Genuine Leather Strap
  • BAND COLOUR: Black
  • BUCKLE: Strap Buckle
  • BAND WIDTH (mm): 22-20
  • WATER RESISTANCE: 5ATM
  • WATCH WEIGHT (g): 100
  • WARRANTY: 2 Years International

Introducing the Bronze TC-9 Lunarscope

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I have reviewed several watches from TC-9, and they all have been great. All the ones I have reviewed have been vintage style divers, which I am a fan of, but now they have a new model that’s not a diver and I – am – liking it! Their new model is the TC-9 Lunarscope Chronograph. TC-9 was kind enough to send me out one to review, so lets check this thing out.

The Dial

The dial on this TC-9 Lunarscope reminds me of an old style scientific gauge. The look is clean and everything is very legible. It’s a more serious look and seems to have a job to do besides just looking good. There are two subdials recessed into the textured black dial. Both 30min and 60 sec subdials are in a copper finish that look great in contrast to the black. The polished pencil hands have a really clean, almost sterile look to them. The telemeter bezel is a ceramic insert and looks fantastic. I have no idea how to use a telemeter on a watch, and I won’t even try, but it looks good.

The Case

What I really like about bronze cases is that they are not perfect and are not supposed to be. They will patinate over time and that adds character. You can always use a metal polish from time to time if you like the more shiny look (but I wouldn’t). The case is made from solid bronze and measures in at 42mm in diameter. The raised domed hesalite glass that covers the dial really looks good. There is some distortion around the edges, but I found that it doesn’t bother me at all. Of note, you will need to be more careful with the hesalite glass since they can scratch. The crystal on the other side (in the case back)  is made from sapphire crystal and shows off a very nice looking movement.  All told, the watch carries a  5atm water resistance rating.

The Movement

Looking through the exhibition case back you can see the stunning looking Seagull ST19 hand wound mechanical chronograph movement. One of the nice things about hand wound movements is that there is no rotor covering the gears. With this one you can see all of the movement chugging away. With blued screws and Geneva stripes this movement is visually stunning.  It’s fun to watch all the gears get going when you’re running the chronograph.

The Strap

This TC-9 Lunarscope comes with a vented Italian leather strap. The strap is very soft and there is no need to break it in. Very comfortable to wear all day long.The texturing and matte black finish compliments the dial.

Love that lume!

Big thumbs up for the lume on this TC-9 Lunarscope. Everything on that ceramic bezel is lumed and just looks perfect. The hour, minute, and seconds hand, along with the hour dot markers are all lumed. This is a great combination and glows to perfection in the dark.

Overall Impression

I am normally not a fan of chronographs. They seem too cluttered. I don’t feel that way with this TC-9 Lunarscope. The copper and black combination and only two sub dials looks so clean. The size at 42mm is also just the right size for me. They will retail for £450 or approx. $576 USD. This Friday they will be offering 35% off the retail price, use code “blackfriday” to get you discount. If you like what out see you can check them out at tc-9watches.mysimplestore.com.

REVIEW SUMMARY
  • Brand and model: TC-9 Lunarscope
  • Price: £450 or approx. $576 USD
  • Who’s it for: Retro watch lovers
  • Would I wear it: For sure
  • What I’d change: Nothing
  • The best thing about it: Love that ceramic bezel.

Tech Specs from TC-9

  • 42 mm Solid Bronze Case
  • Seagull ST19 hand wound mechanical chronograph
  • Raised domed hesalite glass on front.  Sapphire glass on case back
  • ceramic bezel insert
  • Horween vintage leather strap with TC-9 buckle
  • 5ATM water resistance
  • Lumed bezel and dial

Hands on with the very Unique DWISS RS1

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DWISS (Design Watch Independent Switzerland) was founded in 2011 by Rafael Simoes Miranda. After designing hundreds of watches for over 15 different brands, Miranda decided to branch out on his own and comes up with his own line of unique Swiss made watches. The latest series from DWISS is the R1 Collection, and you can get some nice really nice options. There are two dial options for the R1; the RS1 and the RC1. Movement options range from quartz, automatic, and even a tourbillon. I was able to get my hands on the RS1-BL which is their blue and black model with an automatic movement. I have worn this for a week now and here are my thoughts.

That crazy dial!

What makes this DWISS RC1 is that crazy cool looking dial. DWISS pulled off a really nice three-dimensional look on this dial. With a raised outer dial and a smaller lower dial this watch is visually stunning to me. The only thing that kind of looks like a hand is the minute hand which is more like an minute pointer. Instead of hands, this watch uses discs. The seconds disc does not point at anything, it just rotates around and looks cool, and shows proof of life. The minute hand/pointer thingy rotates inside the smaller dial and points the small cutout minute markers. The hour disc makes things very interesting. Half of the disc is colored in blue. As the disc rotates around dial you can tell the hour by which segment is filling up. At first, it takes some time to get used to; after awhile, it gets easy. Such an unusual way to tell the time, and such a nice way to.

The Case

Totally love the look of this case. Made from 316L stainless steel with black ion-plated coating. The case measuring in at 45mm wide and 13mm thick. This is not a small watch but it wears very well. DWISS uses a 7-part multi layer modular design which creates a very interesting look. The main part of the case which houses the movement slides into a frame which is connected to the lugs. They are bolted together using 4 screws which you can see on the bezel and on the case back. Sapphire crystal is used to protect the dial and also is used for the exhibition case back. The screw down crown with the DWISS logo is surrounded with a hard rubber grip wich looks great.

The Movement

DWISS uses a ETA 2824-2 Elabore movement in their RS1 models. This movement provides Incabloc shockproof protection which is done by using a spring-loaded mounting system for the jeweled bearings that support the balance wheel. This will provide some protection if the watch if banged around or dropped. The movement itself is fairly simple-looking with the exception of the customer rotor. Always love seeing a nice movement through the case back.

The Strap

The strap on the DWISS RS1 combines both leather and canvass. This combination of materials provides the comfort of soft leather around the wrist, and the durability of canvass. Each model uses accent stitching to compliment the color on the dial.I have worn this watch for a week now and have had to comfort issues at all.

The Lume

When I first looked at this DWISS RS1 I didn’t even think there was an lume at all – but i was wrong. The hour pointer is painted in lume which just look plain white in the light. There is a lumed ring underneath the hour disc. To read the time in the dark you have to know that the covered area over the lumed ring is the blue area on the hour disc. Takes a little time to get used to but not long. This has to be the most unusual lumed dial that I have seen.

Overall Impresion

Pretty sure you can tell I really like this watch. It not the same old everyday watch. There is uniqueness and character in this DWISS watch. This watch will get attention for sure. Build quality is excellent and the movement choice is right on. Retail on this DWISS RS1-BL is $1,390 which I feel is a good deal for such a unique time piece. Also worth noting – they are offering a special deal from Nov 23rd through Nov 26th. Each day the first four people that buy from their site will get a special discounted price. To get in on this deal just sign up here. Each day they will send you an exclusive discount code for a special watch price. If you want to see more models and information check them out at dwiss.com.

REVIEW SUMMARY

  • Brand and model:  DWISS RS1-BL
  • Price: $1390.00 USD
  • Who’s it for: Me and anyone wanting something truly unique.
  • Would I wear it: Daily
  • What I’d change: Nothing
  • The best thing about it: That unique dial.

 

Tech Specs from DWISS

Dimension  
45,0 mm diameter
13,0 mm thickness

Movement
Swiss made – Automatic movement
ETA 2824-2 (Elabore or Top Grade)
Shockproof protection Incabloc®
Number of jewels: 25
Frequency 4Hz – 28’800
Power reserve: approximately 42h

Case
316L Stainless Steel, Black IP with a 7-part multilayer structure
See-through case back

Dial
Black dial with blue accents and the exclusive design-awarded DWISS signature time display system

Glass (crystal) 
Sapphire with anti-reflection

Strap
Italian made fabric and leather strap
DWISS exclusive Stainless Steel buckle

Water resistant
20 ATM – 200 meters

 

TIme is a circle with the Beaubleu B01

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We here at WWR are certainly no strangers to watches that come out of France, most recently having looked at the quite nice Merci LMM-01 and the watches from Axiom.  Well, today we’re back with another brand that calls France home, and two of the four watches that make up their latest collection – the  Beaubleu B01.

The Beaubleu B01 collection is made up of four different variants.  There were the two we spent some time with:  Le Luminuex (in polished steel) and Le Survolté (in black and rose gold), and then the other two – Le Mystérieux ( in black PVD) and Le Dynamique (in polished steel and black PVD).  All of these share the same 42mm case (at a quite svelte 9.4mm thick), sapphire crystal, and Miyota 9015 automatic movement.  So, when it comes to the variants, you’re really choosing between the case finishing.

When it comes to that case, there’s actually more to it than it seems.  When I first saw photos of the Beaubleu B01, I missed the details of the case design.  These are more easily seen on the two-tone variant, as it shows how it appears to have an inner, central portion of the case, and then there are the portions that make up the lugs.  These are skeletonized and open, and give things are rather nice and unique look, particularly when you view the case in profile.

Snugged into those sculptural lugs of the Beaubleu B01 is a strap made of Italian leather.  It’s a decent quality strap, and it fits well with the style of the watch. Once in place on the wrist, it snugs in nice and tight.  That then leaves you to focus in on the dial, and what an interesting dial it is. On one hand, the dial seems somewhat simple.  You’ve got simple stick indices on the outer ring, standard issue.  Next to that, though, you get the first bit of texture, with concentric grooves.  Then, since of that, you’ve got a polished ring with another set of indices marked inside of it.  Why is that done?  Well, to help you tell the time, of course.

That leads us to perhaps the most noticeable part of the Beaubleu B01 design, that of the handset.  Here, we have a set of circles, one large, one small.  This gives the watch a unique look, but it is one that takes a little bit of time to get used to in terms of reading the time.  Fortunately, each circle has a small pip at the end of it that allows you to more quickly read the time – hence, the double set of indices.  Each track nicely aligns with each hand, I often found myself glancing first at the larger circle, which of course makes sense to check the minutes first, and then drop to the hours.

With the amount of polish surfaces on the Beaubleu B01, it is very much a dressier watch.  Sure, it works for somewhat more casual settings, but the light the watch reflects (fortunately, not from the dial aside from the central circle), but this is a watch for classing up your outfit.  This is further underscored by the lume – or rather, the lack of it.  I had hoped that perhaps the handset, in that bright white, might be lumed, but that is not the case.  As we know, most dress watches are not lumed either, so this further cements the idea.

If you find yourself wanting to pick up a 60g Beaubleu B01 for yourself, bear in mind that there are only 125 pieces of each of the four versions, so they will become rarer as time goes on.  For those who pick one up, it will run you about $680 (depending on the currency exchange rates).  Perhaps a touch more than we’re used to seeing for Miyota-powered watches, for one of this design and thinness, I think you’re doing ok.  I’m glad we had time with the Beaubleu B01, and look forward to what the next design may bring from the brand.  beaubleu-paris.com

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model:  Beaublue B01 – Le Lumineux (silver) and Le Survolté (rose gold)
  • Price: $680 (595 €)
  • Who’s it for? You want a dressier watch that has unique design elements
  • Would I wear it? Yes, yes I would
  • What I’d change: With the solid white handset, I think it would be great to see them luminous
  • The best thing about it: Aside from the unique handset, I do rather like the case design
Tech Specs from Beaublue Paris
  • Diameter : 42 mm
  • Thickness: 9,4 mm
  • Glass : crystal sapphire and scratch resistant
  • Stainless steel 316 L (Le Lumineux), Black and Rose Gold PVD (Le Survolté)
  • Automatic slim movement
    • MIYOTA 9015 decorated
    • Power reserve : 42 hours
  • Water resistance : 5 ATM (50 meters)
  • Buckle : Pin buckle
  • Strap : Italian leather, 20 mm
  • Warranty:  2 years
  • Limited edition:  125 pieces (of each variant)

The Aevig Thor drops the hammer

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When it comes to new watches being released, we generally have a pretty long line of sight with brands that we’ve established a relationship with.  Sometimes we get to see fun things (under an NDA) that we can’t tell you about for a while, other times we’re given enough notice so we can prep an article or review for a launch.  Then, every now and again, we get a mystery.  That’s what happened to me here – I received a shipping notification, but with no brand attached – just a fellows name, and origin address.  Fortunately my contact-searching fu was in working order, and I realized something was inbound from Aevig. But what could it be?  Well, opening the box showed some something quite vintage and fun – the Aevig Thor.

There are a lot of watches out there that claim to have a vintage look and feel, but often those claims are… well, let’s just call them generous.  Then you have something like the Aevig Thor that is hitting all the right notes, at least for me.  Give that case a classy and classic profile, but don’t be afraid to up the dimensions a bit for modern tastes (40mm in this case, with a 48mm lug-to-lug), put a domed crystal on it of some sort (boxed sapphire here), and then drop a manually-wound movement (a new one for me, the Miyota 8N33).  That gives you the bones of something that is going to be fun.

At least, that’s a good starting point.  You really need the dial in there to seal the deal, and with the Aevig Thor, you’ve got three different ways to take it on.  There’s a flat black, a sunray blue, and then an oh-so-amazing white linen dial that instantly dethroned the blue from being my favorite.  This is a texture you really don’t see on modern watches, so it reinforces the vintage vibes.  The baton hands and stick indices do so as well, while the applied Aevig logo at the 12 o’clock position gives you a pop of color, almost like a poppy on the dial.

On one hand, the Aevig Thor presents as a dress watch – it’s fairly thin, has a simple profile, and there’s no date.  And the brand bills it as a vintage dress watch as well.  I think it’s more than that, though.  Drop the lights down low, and you see the hands light up.  But, unexpectedly, you also have lumed pips at the outboard of each indice, including double pips at the 12 o’clock position.  This takes it from the realm of “just” a dress watch in my book, and gives it some solid everyday cred.  Also worth noting, the different dials have different lume colors.

Also breaking from a more traditional dress watch look is the crown of the Aevig Thor.  It calls to mind the top of a crenelated tower, and makes for a quite easy to grip crown.  It’s not screwed down (the watch only carries a 50m WR rating), but that’s ok, as you’ll likely be using the crown regularly.  You see, the watch has a manually-wound movement, as noted earlier.  This is the Miyota 8N33, a movement I’ve not experienced before.  In my time with the watch, it wound smoothly, and kept accurate time.  It’s also not a bad-looking movement as viewed through the exhibition caseback.

Rounding out the Aevig Thor is the strap.  This is a German-made calf leather strap with heavy graining.  The end of the strap has an angled cut (making for a bolder look), and the strap itself tapers from 20mm at the lug to 18mm at the signed buckle.  The buckle here shows some attention to detail, as it’s not just a standard thumbnail buckle.  You’ve got the Aevig logo showing up, and it just makes the watch feel more complete.

All that was left was to strap the Aevig Thor on and wear it around, and wear it I did.  While the look itself is fairly modest, this makes for a watch that blends in just about anywhere.  While the black leather strap helps to lend some formality to the watch, it’s not super glossy, so it doesn’t feel out of place with jeans.  It just melted away under the cuff, and popping it out for a quick check of the time was just that – quick, as the dial is easy to read.  Of course, once I had that linen dial uncovered, I didn’t mind looking at it for a bit longer.

 

If you’re wondering if I came away as a fan of the Aevig Thor, the answer is a definite yes.  The three variants are available now, with a price tag attached to them of $545 (depending on the currency conversion from €579), and all come in the clever metal tin and leather travel wrap.  The Aevig Thor provides a modernized vintage look, in a package that can easily shift from dressier to casual occasions.  Manually-wound movements are less common in this day, but they do give you something to fiddle with (and keep the watch running) throughout the day.  This was an unexpected surprise to cross my review desk, and a delightful one at that.  aevig.com

 

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model: Aevig Thor
  • Price: $545 (€579)
  • Who’s it for? You find yourself dressing a little more formally these days, and want an everyday watch that will fit in without feeling stuffy
  • Would I wear it? Indeed, indeed.
  • What I’d change: Stealthily luming the “poppy” at 12 would be fun
  • The best thing about it: The linen dial, of course
Tech Specs from Aevig
  • Material: 316L stainless steel
  • Dimensions: 40mm width x 48mm length
  • Lug width: 20mm
  • Thickness: 11mm; 12.5mm including box sapphire
  • Movement: Miyota 8N33 manual wind
  • WR: 50m
  • Crystal: double domed box sapphire with AR on inside
  • Lume: Swiss Luminova
  • Strap:
    • 1. custom, made in Germany  calf leather strap 80 x 115mm
    • 2. two piece grey Perlon included

World trippin’ with the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition

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It should be no surprise to anyone that when Hamilton reached out with a new GMT watch for a review, it took me all of about 3 seconds to say yes.  Now, that said, this is a much different GMT than I’m used to wearing.  So, let’s get into what we’ve got going on with the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition.

Right off the bat, you know you’ve got something different when you first handle the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition.  With a stainless steel case coming in at 46mm, you’ve got a good bit of heft (204g as sized for my wrist), not to mention a good deal of wrist presence.  Simply put, this is a big sport watch.  Which, for a GMT / world time watch, that is something we’re not used to seeing.  Yes, there is a history of sport-cased watches giving GMT tracking.  But when you get a world time scale in the mix, those tend to be a bit more compact.

Nevertheless, the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition has a world time bezel, in ceramic, fixed around the sapphire crystal covering the dial.  In conjunction with the GMT hand (and it’s 24-hour scale printed on the chapter ring), you can do some quick math to figure out the time anywhere in the world.  Should you be jetting around the world, you want a watch that can stand up to whatever you may encounter.  The large steel case will of course protect the H41 automatic movement therein, and also gives a modest 50m WR.  Sure, you won’t be diving, but you can swim with it if you like.

With the dial of the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition, you have another sort of interesting design cue entering the mix.  There is the mostly grooved portion, yes, but then you have the large central, smooth, stripe that calls to mind a rallye stripe on a car, which puts me in mind of some sort of automotive watch.  That said, I do like the variation in texture and depth levels on the dial.  Add in the applied, polished (and lumed) indices, and you’ve got a lot of layers that can catch the light.  The crystal has an AR coating on it, and when the light catches the angles of the hands and the indices, you’ve got no problem telling what time it is.

The GMT hand of the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition is in red, so it’s easy enough to pick out.  It’s worth noting here how the H41 movement handles setting the main and GMT time.  Often, we’re used to the main time being set as on any other watch, and then the GMT hand is set in 1-hour clicks.  Here, we have what many consider to be the truer implementation.  The GMT hand is locked in with the main time setting, while the hour hand moves in the 1-hour increments.  While this is different than many are used to, it makes sense for someone who’s traveling.  You can keep the GMT time set to home (or whatever time zone you’re tracking) and quick adjust the hour hand to match where it is you’ve just landed.

As you might expect, wearing a bigger watch like the Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition takes some getting used to.  For a bigger, heavier watch, fit is the key.  Once I had the bracelet adjusted, it kept quite snug on my wrist.  I also rather liked the clasp on the bracelet, which was much different than the fold-over clasp type that you might otherwise expect.  There’s also a great bit of finishing hiding in the bracelet, where the beveled edges of the center links are polished.  Again, that little pop of brightness picks up other beveled edges, and gives the traveler some subtle flash.

At the end of the day, the $1,545 Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition seemed like a mixed bag of design elements.  It’s a world time / GMT watch, but the dial evokes some automotive feelings, and the overall case and presentation brings to mind an oversized dive watch, but we’ve only got a 50m WR rating.  So, as I say, it’s a mixture of things going on here.  For me, it just didn’t click, but I will also admit that my days of overly large watches seem to be behind me, so that may have prejudiced my take on the watch a bit.  For those who may be in to the design, I don’t fault you for it – this has some unique elements to it, and it will certainly get the job done, giving you a watch with impressive presence while you jaunt about the world.    hamiltonwatch.com

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model: Hamilton Broadway GMT Limited Edition
  • Price: $1,545
  • Who’s it for? You travel the world (or like to think about doing that) and you want a watch with plenty of presence
  • Would I wear it? No, this isn’t the one for me – it’s simply too large for my tastes
  • What I’d change: If this could get dropped down to 40 or 42mm, then we’d have something even more interesting
  • The best thing about it: The “true” GMT hand adjustment implemented in the movement
Tech Specs from Hamilton
  • Movement:  H41 automatic; 80-hour power reserve
  • Case:  46mm, stainless steel; 13.15mm thick
  • Lugs:  22mm
  • WR:  50m

Playing the classics with the Hamilton Boulton

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When it comes to classic, vintage looks, Hamilton seems to have a good handle on locking in that vintage, sometimes Americana, sort of a look.    While the Hamilton Boulton is a little outside the style I’d normally be drawn to, there’s something about that art deco look that just speaks to me.  So, we requested a loaner, and in one came.

Now, unlike the previous Hamilton that we just reviewed, the Hamilton Boulton is a very compact watch.  The stainless steel case comes in at 41.5mm lug to lug, and it’s just a hair over 8mm thick.  What those dimensions hide is the curved caseback that it has.  This makes for a watch that hugs in on the wrist very closely, making it wear even smaller than it might suggest.  And, frankly, when you have a watch that’s much longer than it is wide, that’s a good route to go.

Boulton vs Broadway

This then leads us to the movement in the Hamilton Boulton.  Sure, a mechanical can certainly be derived to fit into this sort of case, but that’s not what we have here.  Instead, we have a quartz movement inside, and I think it’s a good decision for the watch.  It may not be a piece that is worn every day, or it may be intended for someone who isn’t as “in” to watches as you and I.  In both of those scenarios, and likely others, this makes the grab-and-go of a quartz a good option.

With it’s more compact dimensions, polished steel case, and slightly glossy (and blue! yes, blue!) leather strap, this is one that feels a bit dressier.  It was just on the borderline of being undersized for my wrist, but it fit nicely, and it also worked quite well on my wife’s wrist as well.  Where this watch really shines is in the dial design.  It’s classic and it’s super-legible.  The Roman numerals almost look painted on (like a dial from the 40s would have been), and the blued hands stand out in sharp contrast.  The sub seconds mix up the design a bit, with the recessed dial, and it makes for a rather nice look.

Now, I will admit, the 34g (that’s not a typo, it’s just 34g) Hamilton Boulton is not going to be for everyone.  For those who are looking for something that is a classic look with modern reliability, I don’t see how this watch isn’t one you’d consider.  Yes, if you’re looking for a larger case size, then the $595 Hamilton Boulton isn’t going to be on your radar.  For those with smaller wrists, though, if you want a classic look, I don’t see how you could go wrong with the watch.  hamiltonwatch.com

 

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model: Hamilton Boulton
  • Price: $595
  • Who’s it for? You want a smaller, very classic vintage look in your watch
  • Would I wear it? Perhaps, but if so, intermittently – it’s just a tad narrower than I’d prefer
  • What I’d change: For this, nothing.  If there was a larger version, though, I’d say explore a mechanical option
  • The best thing about it: The dial and hands.  For this watch, for me, it comes back to the dial and hands.
Tech Specs from Hamilton
  • Movement:  Quartz, caliber 980.163
  • Case:  stainless steel, 8.21mm thick
  • Lugs:  18mm
  • Strap:  blue leather

Globe Trotting with the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer

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We’ve covered quite a few watches from Christopher Ward over the years, and many of us here at WWR have become fans of the value proposition they represent, along with some readily identifiable styles.  My earliest exposure to the brand came from the C60 Trident line, and I’ve tended to gravitate towards those.  Well, today, we’ve got a review of a watch that is quite a bit different from the Tridents, the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer.

If you couldn’t tell from the world map on the dial and the cities printed around the outside, the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer is a bit different from the regular GMT watches I’m normally handling.  This led to a little bit of a learning curve when it was time to actually set the watch.  You see, the 24-hour scale with it’s day/night indicator is printed in counter-clockwise order, the opposite of what I’m used to seeing.  Then, there’s the matter of the orange “search light” beam that comes out from the center – what’s that about?

Well, on the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer, that constitutes what we’d more commonly think of as a GMT hand.  It’s a clever implementation in terms of the visual design, and it’s easy enough to set.  In the first crown position, rotating one direction moves the 24-hour ring, and then rotating it the other direction will jump the beam to the correct spot that you’re wanting to focus on.  While it may not be how others do it, I ended up setting the hand to be GMT time, so I could easily see that.  What’s nice about this is that the beam itself doesn’t move, so you always have one spot on the dial to check to see what the time is in the spot you’re concerned about.

Then, with the cities printed around the chapter ring of the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer, you can do some quick math to see what time it is anywhere in the world.  Of course, you can also just check the regular, local, time quite simply with the polished baton hands that float over the world map.  In that, the watch feels like a highly polished (well, it is) watch that’s a dressier piece equipped for world travel (or just keeping track of times in other places you’re communicating with).

And yes, I realized during the course of my review time (and after the photos were done, unfortunately) that I did not have things setup for the day/night and cities aligned properly.  I was reading the GMT properly, but it didn’t align to where the cities were, which makes reading the world time trickier than it needs to be.  Once I corrected it to make sense (and moved the beam), I realized the mistake, but thought I’d call it out (rather than hiding it) because I may not be the only person to make this mistake.  Just set the 24-hour counter to align to a city you know the current 24-hour time of, and then move the beam to where you want it.  For my usage, that meant it aligned on London, which – hindsight being what it is – makes more sense.  Ok, now back to the review.

Powering all of this for the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer is their caliber JJ03, which is a modified ETA 2893 with Christopher Ward’s in-house module.  CW has been doing more of that – building up their own movements – and most of these find their come in the C1 series.  This allows them to play around with things, and of course increase the allure of it being an in-house modified movement contained in the watch.  It also helps them to make a compact package – this watch comes in at just about 11.5mm thick, and only 94g.

In wearing the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer, I found it a comfortable watch between the thinness and relative lightness.  On the strap (there are a few color options here) you’ve got a deployant clasp that you need to get adjusted properly.  With the end of the strap going in, it layers that between your wrist and the metal.  It does – as this sort of clasp does – add some bulk under your wrist, but I didn’t notice any discomfort from that.  I did have some troubles with the clasp actually locking in place now and again, but that’s a simple check when you first put the watch on.  Once it was on and locked, there wasn’t anything with it coming loose.

All that was left, then, was to wear the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtime out and about and see how it performed in the real world.    Telling time on the watch is fairly simple, as the polished hands stand out against the world map, and the minute hand is a good deal longer than the hour hand (though they’re both similar widths), reaching out to their respective tracks.  By and large, while the world city timing was interesting, I just didn’t use it all that much (but that’s just me).  I did like how the world map was used with transparency to make a more visually interesting dial, along with giving some information around how the times are being reflected.

At the end of the day, I found the Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtime to be a clever and interesting implementation of the world time complication, and one of my favorites that I’ve had to play with.  At the end of the day, though, I still find myself preferring the simpler GMT time, which allows for a less-busy dial (and somewhat smaller diameters).  Again, that’s just me.  And if you’re finding yourself needing to deal with world time more than me, well, then the $1,135 is definitely what I’d call in the realm of affordable luxury for an interesting watch like this one.  christopherward.com

Review Summary
  • Brand & Model: Christopher Ward C1 Grand Malvern Worldtimer
  • Price: $1,135
  • Who’s it for? You’re a snappily dressed globetrotter – or just like to play one on TV
  • Would I wear it? At the end, I prefer a simpler GMT display than what is offered here with the world time
  • What I’d change: If there was a bit of a flare or some way (Aside from hand length) to more easily tell the hour hand apart, that would be welcome
  • The best thing about it: Of all things, I really dug the “ray of light” GMT “hand” and how it interplayed with the map
Tech Specs from Christopher Ward
  • Movement:  JJ03 automatic (based on the ETA 2893)
  • Case:  polished stainless steel
    • Diameter:  43.5mm
    • Thickness:  11.55mm
    • Lug-to-lug:  51.9mm
  • Water resistance:  30m
  • Strap:  cordovan leather in three colors:  camel, tan, blue; 22mm

Hanging out with the NTH Näcken Renegade

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We all have brands that we look forward to seeing new releases from, and NTH (part of Janis Trading, as we all know) is one of those very brands.  So, when Chris “Doc” Vail reached out and asked if we wanted to take a look at some of the newer models he’s releasing, we of course said yes.  Victor will have a different one in a review soon, but I took a look at at the NTH Näcken Renegade.

The NTH Näcken Renegade is, of course, and extension of the neo-modern Sub line that Vail has been putting together for awhile now.  We’ve reviewed a handful of NTH watches (full list here) and Victor did an in-depth review of the Näcken line right here, including comparisons to the historical Rolex and Tudor designs that inspired these.  Of particular note for this review would be the 1969 Tudor Submariner 7922 that he found a photo of – it looks a LOT like this watch.

Of course, what drew me to the NTH Näcken Renegade was that blue gradient dial.  Unlike others that you may have seen, this is done with a translucent color treatment on the dial, so you can still see the brushed finish marks on the (presumably) brass dial blank.  This also means you have some shifting color, depending on the ambient light and the angle you’re holding it at.  It can move from a deep blue to something with more than a little bit of a brownish tint to it.  So, those in search of an opaque blue may not be pleased, but I found it to be an interesting effect (if tricky to photograph).

Speaking of finishes and color on the NTH Näcken Renegade, I want to talk a little bit about the case and bracelet.  On one hand, we’ve got a fairly “standard” brushed finish with polished bevel edges on the case.  What I noticed when I was wearing the watch, however, was something unexpected. There’s a sort of bright luster that the metal has.  It’s not so much reflective, but it is definitely bright.  Made for a neat effect.  Oh, and with the bracelet, there’s a bit of excitement around the links. Specifically, while it does have half-links, if they’re removed, the current full-size links won’t attach to the clasp.  Vail is of course aware of this, and is working with the supplier right now to get that sorted out for the watches you may have landing on your wrist.

Powering the NTH Näcken Renegade is the very familiar Miyota 9015 automatic movement, albeit with the date placed down at the 6 o’clock position, rather than at 3 or 4 (you can also opt for a non-date configuration as well).  Normally, I’d ding a brand for not color-matching the date wheel, but here, the white disc works – it makes the date window feel like just another indice (though one that is slightly larger than the others).

It wasn’t just the color and the interesting finish of the NTH Näcken Renegade that hooked me, though.  Those were big parts of it, to be sure, but there is a lot going on here that just ticks the right boxes for me.  You’ve got a compact stainless steel case (40mm by 11.5mm thick) with a sapphire crystal and a 300m WR rating, and of course the stock bracelet as well (which tapers from 20mm to 18mm).  Add in the great lume on the dial (and the always-fun lumed crown), and there’s a lot to like.

Once I had the bracelet of the NTH Näcken Renegade sized (my standard two links on each side, plus some fiddling with the spring bar in the clasp) it was ready to wear.  And wear it I did.  This was my primary watch when I went back to Detroit for Thanksgiving, and it has also made it’s way into the office.  Dimensionally, this is a perfect watch for me, and the color scheme here is one of my favorites.  Legibility is a snap in this color scheme, though I wouldn’t mind if the handset were just a touch larger.

All in all, though, I did rather enjoy my time with the NTH Näcken Renegade.  And my time with it further cemented the fact that I enjoy the snowflake hands so much more than the “Rolex” hands that we often see on subs.  For anyone on the search for a compact dive watch with vintage looks and modern reliability, I don’t know how something like the $650 NTH Näcken Renegade wouldn’t be on the table.  For those looking to purchase, you have a lot of options.  We of course have the main product page linked at the end of this article, but there are also many authorized retailers both within and outside of the US – you can see that full list right here.

And should you not be a fan of blue for some reason – as presented here on the NTH Näcken Renegade – there are plenty of other variants within the line, and I’m sure there’s one in there that should catch your fancy.  If you do pick one up, let us know (either in Slack or via email) and let’s talk the watch and your take on it.  nthwatches.com

Review Summary
  • Brand & Model:  NTH Näcken Renegade
  • Price: $650
  • Who’s it for? Anyone looking for a new dive watch with some vintage-inspired looks
  • Would I wear it?  Yes, I would – and I did from the time I had it sized until it was time to return it
  • What I’d change:  If the handset could be a touch larger, that would be nice
  • The best thing about it:  Let’s go outside the box, and go with that lustrous finish on the case and bracelet

Tech Specs from NTH

  • Case
    • 316L Stainless Steel with Double-Domed Anti-Reflective Sapphire
    • 120-Click Uni-Directional Bezel with Top-Grade PVD/DLC Stainless Steel Insert
    • 30 ATM / 300m / 984ft WR with Screw-Down Crown
  • Dimensions
    • 40mm diameter (without crown) x 48mm lug-to-lug x 11.5mm thick
    • 20mm lugs with tapering bracelet & 18mm double-locking diver’s clasp
    • Weight with Bracelet: 4.9 oz / 140g
  • Movement
    • Miyota auto cal. 9015
    • 28,800 BPH with 42+ hour power reserve
    • Average daily rate of -10/+30 secs/day with max 40 secs/day positional variance

Heading downtown with the S&B Watches Skyline

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As I mentioned in our article on the Zew Box Luxury Watch Kickstarter, S&B Watches (also known as Smith & Bradley) was the main brand behind the club starting up.  While the campaign has closed (and was fully funded), we got to spend a little bit of time with a S&B Watches Skyline, the Swiss automatic offered at one of the tiers in the club.  So, you backers at the Executive Club level, consider this a preview of the watch you’ll be receiving.

I have reviewed most of the watches that S&B Watches have produced, and the S&B Watches Skyline is definitely a departure from what we’ve normally seen from the brand.  While others are more tactically-aligned, the Skyline is definitely taking things in a dressier direction.  First off, take a look at the dial.  The waffle pattern is crisp, and offers an interesting play with light and shadow without being overly busy.

Over the top of that, the S&B Watches Skyline has a handset that is verging on being oversized, but I really, really like it.  For one, it allows for a heaver outline on the hands, which makes reading the time a cinch.  Additionally, it allows for hefty lume application, which matches up to the lumed stick indices that are applied on the top of the dial.  When the lights go down, it’s a rather bright and readable light show you’ve got going on.

As you can see in the photos, the stock option for the S&B Watches Skyline is a metal mesh strap, which you can adjust fairly easily enough to get a good fit on your wrist.  Should that not be to your liking, there’s also a nylon NATO strap options as well, or whatever you might have handy for slipping into the 22mm lugs.

Tucked inside the case of the S&B Watches Skyline is the well-known ETA 2824-2.  I remember in earlier meetings with the brand (a few years back) ETA seemed out of reach for them (given all the supply issues) so they were investigating other avenues.  It’s interesting to see that the brand has reached a place where ETA is definitely on their radar, and it doesn’t seem out of place for the brand to be offering it.  It also lends some comfort to the buyer as well, given the serviceability (and reliability) of the movement itself.

So, how do you get yourself a S&B Watches Skyline?  Well, if you didn’t jump in on that kickstarter campaign, you’re actually a bit out of luck.  Early tiers had the watch coming in at $289, but as it stands right now, there are not any plans to offer this outside of the Zew Box club (membership has its privileges, it would seem).  It’s not to say never, but for now, this is going to be a rare beastie to come across.  smithbradleyltd.com

Review Summary
  • Brand & Model: S&B Watches Skyline
  • Price: $289 (this was the pricing on the tier in the KS campaign that was eligible for this watch)
  • Who’s it for? You want an affordable Swiss automatic with a great dial
  • Would I wear it?  Yes, this could be in the rotation
  • What I’d change:  If the case was just a touch thinner, the proportions would be perfect
  • The best thing about it:  Along with the dial, I really dug the sizing of the handset.  This led to some interesting effects when viewed in the dark

Tech Specs from S&B Watches

  • Movement:  ETA 2824-2 automatic
  • Case
    • 316L Stainless steel
    • 42mm without crown
    • 49mm lug-to-lug
    • 22mm lugs
    • 12mm thick
  • Sapphire crystal, anti-reflective coating
  • Crown:  O-ring sealed (not screw-down)
  • Metal mesh strap, fully adjustable

Staying warm in the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket

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All the way back in November, we brought you word of a clever, super packable, super light-weight synthetic down jacket that was on fire on Kickstarter (when I checked just before the campaign closed, it was sitting at 37X it’s initial funding goal.  So, obviously, I was not the only person who found the project intriguing.  Well, fortunately for you (and me), I got to spend some time with a prototype of the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket, and am here to give you my take on the jacket.

First off, you will not believe how light the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket.  Seriously – once I had it packed into it’s pocket (more on that in a bit) I threw it on our kitchen scale, and the readout told me 12.2 oz – you know, like two steel dive watches.  This has got to be one of the lightest jackets I’ve handled that is intended for keeping you warm in the cool weather.  Given that Outdoor Vitals also makes sleeping bags (among other lightweight backpacking gear), I inquired what sort of rating they would apply to the jacket, in terms of temp.  Per the brand, the jacket should keep you comfortable – if you’re doing nothing – down to around 40 F.  If you’re active – say, actually backpacking – then that temp range extends a good bit more.

In fact, that’s why the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket has zippers on both sides. You can lower those down and get some air moving into (and under) your arms to help cool you off when you’re heading over the river and through the woods to your next campsite.  Or, if you’re more of an urban hiker, keep those zipped up.  If it’s below freezing?  Well, feel free to layer up.  For a few days, I used the jacket as a layer (in place of my Patagonia Better Sweater) and it filled that layering role with aplomb. Actually, in some ways, it may have been a better layering partner.  For starters, the synthetic shell is a touch slippery, so it slides into sleeves easily.  Next, when you consider how thin it is, it’s not adding much bulk (and the synthetic down compresses).  Finally, the insulated hood was a revelation.  I’ve had jackets with hoods, but never insulated. It was more to keep your head dry, but I always wore a hat of some sort.  Not so with the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket.  Cinch the side hood straps down a bit to keep the wind out, and your head and ears stay toasty (even in below-freezing Chicago weather).

Also helping you stay warm is the rather high neck gusset on the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket.  Some folks may not care for it, but I rather liked it.  Other winter jackets will have taller necks, but they always seem to leave a big enough gap that I need to have a scarf or gaiter in there to keep the wind out.  Not so here – zip it up to your chin, and you can seal yourself up pretty well.  You’ve got cinch elastics down on the waist as well to further close in the envelope.  For that, I actually found the size L to be pretty snug on my hips (as it drops lower for better coverage, especially in the back) so I did not need to use those drawstrings.  Finally, if you wanted to extend the warmth down inside your gloves, you’ve got thumbholes that hold the sleeves down and in place.  I did not make use of that here, but I have on another sweater I have, and it does help in the lower temps.

What if it’s snowing or raining?  Well, the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket still has you covered.  I wasn’t about to spray down a loaner jacket (or do some of the other water tests they showed in the Kickstarter campaign), but we did have some snow and freezing rain falling here in Chicago, so I tried it out that way.  Guess what?  I stayed nice and dry!  And, even if it had been enough of a downpour to get through the DWR coating on the jacket, the insulation is supposed to dry quickly, and still insulate (much like wool) even if it’s wet.

Now, there is one other trick the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket has up it’s sleeves, and it’s something that made me wish this jacket had existed back when I was backpacking more regularly.  You can pack this jacket into one of the side pockets, and it then becomes a pillow you can use in your tent. Backpacking is all about weight reduction, and if you can turn something into a multi-tasker, all the better.  For those more looking at traveling, it packing into it’s own pocket (and you can still really compress things) means it’s not a jacket that will take up much space in your bag.  Or, even your backpack if you’re bringing it on the trail due to uncertain weather conditions.

At the end of my time with the Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket, I came away suitably impressed.  The brand managed to take all of the great things of lightweight sleeping bags and turn it into a jacket that is great on it’s own or as a layer.  While the Kickstarter campaign has ended, I have to imagine, with it’s popularity, that this would become a part of their regular catalog in the future.  Until then (and, actually, right now) you can check out the second campaign that just started up at Indiegogo. All their current production is spoken for, so orders from the new campaign (with pricing starting at $114) are expected to ship by July.  So, consider this your second chance to get a jacket from a company run by someone who’s dedicated to creating quality, lightweight gear for the trail.   outdoorvitals.com

Review Summary

  • Brand & Model: Outdoor Vitals LoftTek Adventure Jacket
  • Price:  $150
  • Who’s it for? You want a lightweight layer – and pillow! – to head out on the trail with
  • Would I wear it? Yes, indeed I would
  • The best thing about it:  There’s a lot to like here – narrowing it down to one detail, it would be the high neck / insulated hood
  • Watch it pairs best with:  I’m thinking something solar powered, like the Citizen Promaster Tough
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