Draken has had two successful Kickstarters: the Tagula and the Peregrine. Both have done very well, and now Draken has come out with the new model on Kickstarter, the Kalahari. There will be two versions of the Kalahari: a black PVD version with cream color face and a stainless steel version with black face. Draken was able send me the prototypes to review and these are even better then I thought. Lets take a look at these desert military beasts.

The Dials

Not designed for elegance, the Draken Kalahari is made to be a tough and aggressive looking desert military watch. Looking at the dial on Kalahari you can see right away that it takes inspiration from the aviation world. The power reserve indicator is inspired by the altimeter in vintage aviation dials. The skeletonized hands also look like they were taken right off of an altimeter. The sandwich dial design with the date wheel, power reserve disk, and inner rotating bezel, really give a great three dimensional look to this watch.

The Cases

The Draken Kalahari comes in either a stainless steel case or the black PVD case. Other than the finish, both cases are identical. Measuring in at 44mm wide, 51.3mm lug to lug, and 15.1mm thick, this is a good sized watch and is exactly the size I like. There are two screw down crowns; one for setting the time, and one for the internal rotating GMT bezel. The case back is screw down and has a large Draken logo which is filled with lume. It looks very cool in the dark. Water resistance for this case is 100 meters.

The Strap

Both versions of the Draken Kalahari comes with the same tan canvas strap. These straps are very durable feeling and fit very well. Since these are prototypes and have been passed along from reviewer to reviewer, I assume they are well broken in. They are very well made and seem as though they can take a lot of abuse. The black PVD version comes with a black pin and buckle clasp and the stainless model comes with the stainless clasp.

Lots of lume!

Draken has done well with this model for sure. Both versions of the Kalahari have excellent lume. If you get the stainless steel version, the lume will come from the painted hands and hour markers. There is even lume on the date wheel. Now the black pvd version takes it to a whole new level. The entire face is painted in lume, including the date wheel. All of the hands and text remain black. Draken has used a sand colored luminous paint to give it that desert military look. I must say, on the Kalahari the lume really looks fantastic.

Overall Impression

If you’re looking for a cool rugged field watch, you might want to go and check this one out. Early bird pricing on this starts at $450 USD. Not a bad price at all for a watch of this quality. The build quality is excellent and it has a very reliable Seiko NE57 automatic movement. If this is your style watch, I suggest that you go check them out and back them. You can check them out on Kickstarter.

Tech Specs from Draken

• Multi-layered dial with Swiss Superluminova C3
• Custom made skeletonised hands
• Luminous date disk
• Loading bar power reserve indicator
• Internal rotating GMT bezel
• Lumed crowns
• Textured bezel
• Moulded and painted case back.
• Sapphire crystal with AR coating
• New premium Seiko NE57 movement
• Water resistance: 100m
• Dimensions: 44mm, 51.3mm lug to lug, 15.1mm thick

I have been following Meccaniche Veneziane since they started and really like the look of their watches. When I found out that after January 2018 all of their watches were going to be Swiss made, I got pretty excited. The folks at Meccaniche Veneziane were kind enough to send me out a Meccaniche Veneziane Nereide to review, and I like what I see. So what does Meccaniche Veneziane mean, and what is a Neriede? Meccaniche Veneziane literally means “Mechanical devices from Venice.” The Nereide pays tribute to the Venetian submarine called Nereide which was built in the Royal Arsenale in 1913 and commissioned to the engineer De Bernardis by the Royal Navy during the First World War. Meccaniche Veneziane was founded by two brothers Alberto and Alessandro, who both share a huge passion for vintage timepieces and the desire to bring back Venetian watchmaking.

The Dial

The Meccaniche Veneziane Nereide model that I received has a matte black face with gold tone minute track, hour markers, and hands. All the text and their cross logo area also in gold. This is a simple three hand watch with date. Many three hande watches can, at times, be a little boring but that’s not the case here. That gold against the black gives this watch a more refined look. Surrounding this dial is unidirectional rotating, enameled aluminum bezel. The red bezel really pairs well with the black face. The cross which you see on the dial, crown, movement, and on the straps is their brand logo which draws inspiration from the cross on the top of Saint Mark’s Watchtower. This is considered the symbol of timekeeping in Venice.

The Case

For someone like me who obsesses over a polished case, sometimes its nice to take a break. This case, which is made from 316L stainless steel has a brushed finish. Whats great about a brushed finish is that is resists finger prints and other small blemishes. There is still enough shine to look good when getting dressed up. This watch can easily go from desk diver to real diving if you so desire. Water resistance is a respectable 200m or approx. 600 ft. The crown guards protect the majority of the screw down crown. The case back is screw down with a sapphire exhibition window which shows of a very nice looking movement.

The Movement

I really like the look of this 21 jewel Swiss Automatic CAL.MV135 hacking movement made, which Meccaniche Veneziane purchases from Depa Swiss Movements. There are so many watches out there that just throw in a generic looking movement, and while that’s ok, there is nothing special about it. This one, on the other hand, looks fantastic. By dressing this movement up with Côtes de Genève, blued screws, and a nicely decorated rotor, this movement is just so pleasing to the eye.

The Straps

I love options, and this watch comes with two of them. This Meccaniche Veneziane Nereide came on a tan color hand made vintage suede leather strap. Right out of the box this strap has a soft, yet durable feeling. There is a little red accent stitching that pairs well with the red bezel. Now, you’re not going to want to bring this suede leather strap into the pool or the ocean. If you want to do that, you can change to the black silicon strap, which is also very comfortable. This strap is water proof but still has a stylish look with its red accent stitching.

The Lume

There is a good amount of lume on this Meccaniche Veneziane Nereide. All of the hour markers, hands, and the lume dot on the bezel are painted with C1 Swiss Superluminova. The charge time is short and the glow lasts a good amount of time.

Overall Impression

To be honest, I can’t really find anything to criticize on this Meccaniche Veneziane Nereide watch. As a diver, I love that fact that its built to dive if I wanted it to. I also like that it is dressy enough for going out, or going to the office. The straps are soft and comfortable. The build quality is very good. What I really like the most is that nicely decorated movement. This watch has a lot going for it and is available at the very decent price of $739 USD. Go check them out at meccanicheveneziane.

REVIEW SUMMARY

Tech Specs from Meccaniche Veneziane

• CASE: Ø42 mm, PVD 316L Stainless Steel
• MOVEMENT: Swiss Made Automatic CAL.MV135
• CRYSTAL: Antireflective Domed Sapphire Glass
• LUME: C1 Swiss Superluminova®
• BEZEL: Unidirectional rotatable, Enamelled Aluminium
• WR: 20ATM = 200mt
• STRAP: Real vintage leather Made in Italy
• EXTRA STRAP: Silicone strap with colored seams

So far, with Polar, we’ve focused more on the workout / running watches that were purpose-built for fitness tracking.  Today, we’ve got something that is still purpose built, but also is a full-blown Android-powered smartwatch, the Polar M600.

Obviously, from my review of the Polar M200, I’ve become a fan of not having to wear a chest strap to measure my heart rate during a workout and having the GPS built into the watch, and the 60g, 15.2mm thick Polar M600 continues that trend.  And, in all actuality, when it comes to the various fitness tracking, the Polar M600 performs just like the other Polar watches I’ve tested out, which is a good thing – it’s easy to use, and instantly familiar.

It’s when you jump out from the known that the Polar M600 differentiates itself.  This is, as I mentioned, a full-on Android Wear watch, which means you’ll need an additional app on your phone for communicating with the watch.  Along with Polar Flow, you’ll need the Android Wear OS app, which facilitates the connection between watch and phone, and allows for some additional setups.

As I’ve come to learn over time, smart watches really aren’t for me, so testing out the Polar M600 was a bit of a mixed bag.  Sure, I did wear the watch to test it out, but I didn’t find myself really using the smarts of the watch.  Sure, the built-in WiFi was great for updating the apps (you configure the WiFi via the Android Wear app), but I didn’t really use the smart notifications or things of that nature.  During the day, it was really just an activity tracker for me, albeit one with a rather nice screen.

There were two scenarios where I did use it, however.  The first being the gym, of course.  Given that Polar built the watch (rather than forcing a generic smart watch into workout duty), you’ve got a dedicated button (right below the screen) that dumps you into the various Polar choices (workout, daily summary, heart rate, and sync), and you can use that same button (or taps on the screen) to make your choices.

I will admit, the touch-screen capability of the Polar M600 was a welcome interaction mode, as sometimes the various button presses (short versus long) on the M200 didn’t always register (due to me not holding it long enough), and if I wasn’t paying attention, I’d miss part of the workout.  Here, it’s very intuitive and easy to get over to what you want tracked, with one exception.

That exception is the sleep tracking, which is the other big use I have for the Polar M600.  The Polar watches have offered sleep tracking before, but the M600 has a lot more detailed look at things, similar to what I am used to from my Fitbit One.  Interestingly enough, though, there’s no way (at least that I found) to tell the M600 you’re going to sleep.  Even without that, it gave pretty similar results to what my Fitbit would record for sleep/wake data, so I’ll say it works.

With the $300 M600, you do have the capability to change straps, as with their other model.  Nice that you can mix things up, or even give a chance for one to be washed and dried and still use the watch.  An item of note here is how the Polar M600 charges.  Unlike our prior reviews, this does rely on a proprietary (magnetic) cable to charge.  Not the end of the world, but nowhere near as convenient as a built-in USB connector.

Oh, I should also note that if you were going to use multiple Polar watches during the day (say, the M200 for your workout and then the M600 for the rest of the day), the Polar Flow app handles that gracefully, and without any fuss.  That all said, at the end of the day, the Polar M600 is just overkill for me.  Perhaps smartwatch fans, or those in a more serious training regimen, could have a use for it, but for me, it didn’t click. Even though it was only 0.5mm thicker than the M200, it just looked and felt bulkier, which was another demerit for it.  So, for me, I am a fan of what Polar is making, I just like their purpose-built, less-smart models (you can still get phone notifications on the M200, it’s worth noting).  You may choose otherwise, of course, and if you do, let us know in the comments below or over in our Slack channel – we’d like to know your side of the story!  polar.com

Review Summary

• Brand & Model: Polar M600
• Price:  $300
• Who’s it for? You want fitness tracking, and you want a full-on smartwatch to boot
• Would I wear it? Nope, this one just really isn’t for me
• What I’d change: A more standard connection for charging, like their other models have
• The best thing about it:  I really dug the more detailed sleep tracking – I wish that was built into the non-smartwatch models as well

• SMARTWATCH WITH GPS:  Track your speed, distance and route with the integrated GPS and GLONASS
• THE WATERPROOF SMARTWATCH TO TRACK EVERY MOVE:  Track your 24/7 activity, steps, distance, calories burned and sleep. Enjoy a 2-day battery life when connected to Android devices.
• GET ACCESS TO POLAR SMART COACHING:  Train smarter with unique and exclusive Polar Smart Coaching features designed for sports, fitness and health.
• GET ASSISTANCE ON THE GO:  See notifications and meetings, ask Google for help and respond to messages – all on your wrist.
• WRIST-BASED HEART RATE MONITORING:  Polar M600 features the proprietary Polar wrist-based heart rate measurement technology, optimized for Polar M600. Simply tighten the band and you’re ready to train.*
  • *In some sports we recommend a heart rate chest strap for optimal accuracy. Read more about wrist-based heart rate measurement
• MUSIC WHILE YOU TRAIN:  Control music right from your watch. Go phoneless with Google Play Music** and 4GB of onboard storage for music playback.

When it comes to certain styles of watches, you can be very spoiled for choice.  Take dive watches, for instance – you have all manner of styles, both old and new, homage and original, across a variety of price points.  With other styles, you can still have a lot of choice, but when it comes to the design itself, they can all look very much the same – such as with Flieger-style watches.  What sets them apart?  Well, let’s see if we can’t answer that question with a closer look at the Stowa Flieger Verus 40.

While Stowa may have their relaunched history a little more recently (things changed to what we see today in 1997), they were actually making their original Flieger watch all the way back in 1940.  These are classic pilot watches, with extreme legibility (generally with white on black dials, and usually blued hands), the very iconic dotted triangle up at 12 o’clock (for orientation) and the distinctive hand shape.  There are generally two styles of dial (single numeral track, or hours/minutes track), and that completes the basics of the design.  As you can see, simple and easy to reproduce – so lots of brands have something in this flavor available.

I mean, even Stowa themselves has quite a variety available – looking at just their “classic Flieger” lineup, they’ve got 20 different variants available. Then, when you consider how many other brands have reproduced both the Type A and Type B spec watches (along with other riffs on those themes), things can seem a little crowded.  For the purist, it is a simple matter to just choose to back to the original source, and go with a brand like Stowa who has a history making this style.  For everyone else, though, the question is, well, why?

The Flieger watch is not a style I’ve reviewed or researched extensively, but I’ve had a few cross my desk, from rather inexpensive quartz ones all the way through Swiss-powered automatics, such as we have today with the Stowa Flieger Verus 40.  The big thing that separates the low end from what I experienced with Stowa (and some other German brands, such as Archimede) is the quality of the build.  Now, I was not subjecting the watch to any sorts of QA testing, nor was I disassembling it.  No, this impression of a solid build came from actually having the watch in hand, and on the wrist.  Perhaps it’s my time with watches over the years, or perhaps it’s a fever dream, but I could certainly tell that the Stowa Flieger Verus 40 was a well-sorted watch.

Sure, you can run through the list of specifications down below, but that’s only half of the story with the Stowa Flieger Verus 40.  The proportions on the 40mm bead-blasted case are compact (it’s just over 10mm thick), but have more character than a simple slab-sided watch would have.  For the main body of the case, it is straight and flat, but the lip of the screwed-in caseback gives it another plane for detail.  Then, the bezel has a chamfered angle to it, which serves to slim the amount of metal right next to the crystal, which then makes the watch visually lighter (and frankly, at 70g on the leather strap, it’s a relatively light mechanical watch).

This then allows you to focus in on the dial of the Stowa Flieger Verus 40.  Sure, this is classic style, and legibility is clear with the monochromatic style.  The matte finish on the dial is perfectly matched with that on the date wheel, which means the date just sort of floats in there at the 6 o’clock position, not making itself obtrusive, but still quite quick to pick out and read.  For this handset, I like that the hands aren’t blued.  The outline would take away from the luminous paint surface, of course, and with how they are here, proportions are perfect – and of course, those hands reach right to their respective tracks, no questions asked.

Frankly, there’s just a lot done right when it comes to the design of the Stowa Flieger Verus 40.  One question most folks asked when they saw the watch was “What brand is that?”  In keeping with the spec of the Flieger, there is no branding or text on the dial of the watch at all.  Even the crown, there’s no logo.  So there’s really nothing conspicuous to identify the maker, at least until you see the buckle on the leather strap.  That’s the only spot you can identify the maker without flipping the watch over – a detail I was quite a fan of for the style.  Oh, and that leather strap – it’s thin, but robust, and has an amazing leather scent to it.

Now, flipping the watch over, and you find all of the text that was missing from the front side of the watch, with engraving around the outer edge of the exhibition caseback, giving you the rundown on the materials, where the watch was made, and even a reminder of the specific model.  You also have a lovely view of the movement here as well – an ETA 2824-2, in either standard grade, or top finish (for an additional price; you’ve also got other options with the watch, as listed in the Tech Specs section).  You’ll note that one of the specs on the caseback calls out a 5ATM (aka 50m) water resistance rating.  So, don’t go swimming with the Stowa Flieger Verus 40, or you’ll be in for a bad time (sort of like if you had to water land your plane, I suppose).

For my time with the Stowa Flieger Verus 40, I wore it primarily at the office and around the house, as it’s overall matte finish doesn’t particularly lend itself to pairing with a suit (though, I suppose you could if you really wanted to).  And, as a daily sort of a companion, I think the Stowa Flieger Verus 40 definitely gets the job done with style to spare.  It’s well-known (dare I say ubiquitous?) design allows it to fly under the radar (pun not intended), making it an unassuming wrist adornment, just waiting for when you happen to need to know the time or date.

That just leaves the question – is the Stowa Flieger Verus 40 worth the price being asked ($646) when you consider the vast array of less-expensive models out on the market?  In my experience, the answer is yes.  And it’s not like the pricetag on the Stowa Flieger Verus 40 is particularly hitting luxury territory.  It’s a solid, well-built watch with reasonably compact dimensions, considering the automatic movement inside.  So, yes, if you’re in the market for a classily-styled Flieger, without any extra craziness (and you want it to last more than a year or two) then indeed, the Stowa Flieger Verus 40 deserves your consideration.  In my book, a mid-priced watch like this one will serve you well, and you’ll get more enjoyment and mileage out of it, than you’d reasonably expect. And that is a bargain, even without considering the cohesive design.  stowa.de

Review Summary

• Brand & Model: Stowa Flieger Verus 40
• Price:  $646 (554,62 € (excl vat)) + shipping
• Who’s it for? You want an everyday watch that will quietly get the job done, with aplomb, year in and year out
• Would I wear it? Indeed I would, indeed I would
• What I’d change: If I’m thinking casual, everyday (non-dress), I would love to see an exploratory version of this watch that had a deep (matte) blue dial on dark brown strap.  Sure, if breaks with convention, but it might be fun to explore
• The best thing about it:  Great looks, great build, great value – an all-around great

• Case
  • Diameter:  40mm
  • Height:  10.2mm
  • Strap width:  20mm
  • Lug-to-lug:  48.6mm
  • Waterproof:  up to 5ATM
  • Weight:  70g (leather strap) / 120g (bracelet)
• Materials
  • Case:  stainless steel, fine mate glass bead blasted
  • Dial:  black matte, white printed, Superluminova BWG9 (white)
  • Hands:  with Superluminova BWG9 (white)
• Movement
  • Caliber:  ETA 2824-2, basic version
  • Mechanism:  mechanical, automatic
• Specific features:  screwed case back, hands and numerals on dial with Superluminova BWG9
• Options
  • With/without date
  • Milanese mesh strap ( + 97,48 € )
  • Movement upgrades
    • ETA 2824-2, top finish ( + 109,24 €)
    • Hand-wound ETA 2804-2 ( + 126,05 €)

The Aeonic Kairos is a beautiful, simple watch with a classic mid-century modern dial, some of the most comfortable leather straps I’ve had the chance to wear, and the excellent Seiko VH31 4Hz quartz movement, which moves the second had four times per second. Unfortunately, the Kickstarter closed, and I hope this isn’t the last chance we have to see Aeonic.

The Aeonic Kairos comes in a few different colorways. The dial in the PVD black case is a sunray-silver dial, with black painted indices, and lume dots at 3-6-9-12 positions. The dial in the polished silver case is a black dial with white painted indices and similar lume dots. The crown is at the 4 o’clock position, staying nicely out of the way, and the crown is nice and grippy. The hands are pencil-like, and extend out to the edge of the dial wonderfully. The whole thing is 39mm in diameter, making it an immensely comfortable watch to wear. The quick-release straps are made of some of the softest leather we’ve worn, in black or “brick red” (which I like to call, ‘wine red.’)

At every step, the choices lean towards quality materials. The cases themselves are made of 316L stainless steel. The lume dots are C3 Swiss SuperLuminova. The crown is oversized for comfort, and the whole thing comes in a leather travel case.

I think a lot about value. How can you get the most for your money, and wear something with a sense of personality, with style, without breaking the bank? Your choices are relatively few – you’re going to end up with a quartz watch, or a Seiko or Miyota automatic. Under $100? You’re getting a quartz watch, with just a few exceptions. This isn’t bad, especially when it’s the excellent Seiko VH31. The beauty of that movement is that it pushes the second hand around the dial 4 times a second, and looks for all the world like a slow-beat automatic.

I wore both black and silver versions of the watch, and received loads of comments from people, but none of that tops how comfortable they are. If you’re on a budget, and looking for something tasteful and enjoyable, this was a good watch that fit the bill. I should have posted sooner about it. I should have told 125 of you handsome, charming readers should have heard about it, and gone and backed it, at $65-75 USD each. I regret that I didn’t let you know in time. I’m sorry, and I think you should let Aeonic know if you want this watch to come back by contacting them.

Watch Overview

• Brand & Model: Aeonic Kairos
• Price: Earlybird pricing starts at $65 USD
• Who we think it might be for: You look for comfortable, affordable, mid-century modern things in life.
• Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen?: Yes.
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: I like the lugs to be a little tighter to the case for this sort of watch.
• What spoke to me the most about this watch: The promise of modularity, the comfort of the straps, and the tasteful dial

Tech Specs from Aeonic

• Case size: 39mm
• Case material: steel
• Crystal: sapphire
• Strap:  leather strap equipped with quick-release bars
• Movement: Seiko VH31

Let’s face it. Watch complications are cool. Who among us doesn’t salivate at the sight of a flyback chronograph, a perpetual calendar, a cool looking moon phase, or any tourbillion? Then again, much of the time what we’re looking for is just a solid, basic, hand-wound mechanical watch to tell us the time. In this case, the new Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical fits the bill nicely, especially if you’re also a fan of the vintage/retro re-issue trend.

The new-for-2018 Khaki Field Mechanical is an almost exact copy of Hamilton’s military-issue watch developed in the late sixties for the US government’s GG-W-113 specification, but with some important differences. While the original 113 was a front loading (movement inserted and removed from the front of the case) 34mm with an acrylic crystal, the modern reinterpretation ups the size to a more contemporary, though still quite modest, 38mm and adds a sapphire crystal and screw down case back. Aside from that and the “Hamilton” and “Swiss Made” text on the dial, the new watch is a dead ringer for the original.

Being a re-creation of an original mil-spec piece means that dial legibility is excellent on the Khaki Mechanical. Said dial consists of white indices and text on a matte black background. Both 12 and 24-hour scales are provided, helping to solidify the military theme. Vintage-lumed triangles mark every five minute interval on the chapter ring, with bold white ticks marking the minutes/seconds. I know the vintage lume thing isn’t everyone’s cup of tea, but I think it works here. As previously mentioned, a slightly domed sapphire crystal stands guard over the dial.

The very basic bead blasted case measures 47mm lug-to-lug, with a big chunk of this length attributed to the long, slender lugs. The signed crown offers good purchase and connects to the silky smooth winding mechanism of an ETA 2801-2 movement. A 20mm lug width means strap swaps will be a breeze. Talking about straps, the Khaki Mechanical ships with an army green NATO with leather keepers, a narrow leather patch covering and reinforcing the pin buckle holes, and a leather covered tail tip. It’s a nice touch, and while it worked well for me, it was a bit too long and a bit too masculine for my wife’s tastes. This was easily solved with an aftermarket NATO strap.

So how was the Khaki Mechanical to live with on a daily basis? In a word, fantastic! Being used to larger watches, I must admit that I was skeptical of wearing something this small. However, the 47mm lug-to-lug measurement really makes an impact here, making the watch feel larger than it’s 38mm diameter would suggest. The great thing about this particular case design is that while it worked well on my 7.5″ wrist, it also worked great on my wife’s 6.25″ wrist, so it’s a fantastic piece that the two of you can easily share.

As for the 2801-2, I personally really enjoy the involvement that comes with a mechanical movement. I own a couple myself and look forward to my morning routine of giving each one a few turns to breath another day or two of life into them. It certainly makes for a more intimate and involving experience with your time pieces. With 46 hours of power reserve the ETA doesn’t quite last a full two days, so if you’ve got it in the regular rotation and don’t want to worry about having to reset the time you’ll need to give the crown a few spins each day.

Overall I very much enjoyed my time with the Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical. Aside from a dressy night on the town, it works for just about every occasion (at least for me). The case fits nicely on a large range of wrist sizes, and the excellent dial legibility means it’s easy to read the time in just about any light condition. Aside from the model I reviewed, the Khaki Field Mechanical is also available with a brown dial in a desert sand color scheme. At $475 retail, this one’s an excellent buy for the seasoned collector, or the newbie looking for his or her first mechanical. hamilton.com

Watch Overview

• Brand & Model: Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical
• Price: $475
• Who we think it might be for: Anyone looking for a solid, no-nonsense, easy-to-read mechanical watch.
• Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen? Yes I absolutely would, though I think I’d opt for the desert tan color scheme. My wife wife enjoyed it as well, so it would be an excellent piece for the two of us to share.
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: I generally prefer a brushed finish over bead blasted.

Technical Specifications from Hamilton

• CASE
  • Material: Stainless steel
  • Size: 38mm, 48mm lug-to-lug
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Case Back: Solid, screw-down
  • Water Resistance: 50m
  • Inter-lug Width: 20mm
• MOVEMENT: ETA 2801-1, 17 Jewels
  • Functions: Manual Wind, Time Only
  • Beats Per Hour: 28,800
  • Power Reserve: 46 Hours
• Strap
  • Material: Nylon & Leather
  • Clasp: Pin Buckle

Back in November 2015, Neil Carpenter ran a successful Kickstarter campaign which brought the Carpenter Field watches to life. These first models have all done very well and were all powered by reliable Japanese movements. Neil has not decided to release a new model, the MS1 Brooklyn Field. This new model is almost exactly like the previous models but they now have a Swiss heart. I was able to spend some time with this model, and there is much to like about this one.

The Dial

Carpenter has done a great job on this dial design. This is visually interesting but yet simple at the same time. The face on this model is matte cream. The hands are polished and filled with C3 lume. There are indexes marking the hours and also marking the seconds. The black print if the indexes look very clean against that matte cream face which makes everything very legible.

The Case

I really like the finishing done on this Carpenter field watch. Made from 316L stainless steel, the case is polished to a mirror like finish and everything is very smooth. That domed sapphire crystal blends seamlessly into the case. Case back is screw down with sapphire exhibition window. Water resistance is 50m which is fine for a field watch. Measuring in at 40mm in diameter and 13.7mm thick, this watch fits perfect on the wrist and can go as formal or as casual as you like.

The Movement

Whats new to this Carpenter Brooklyn Field?  The main difference on this new model is that this one comes with a Swiss made ETA 2824-2 automatic movement. There are many folks out there that could care less about the movement in the watch but for some this is a really big deal. For reasons I really can’t explain I guess I would be one of them. I just feel better knowing there is a Swiss movement powering my watch.

The Strap

Made from genuine leather the strap on this watch has a durable feel but soft enough to be comfortable on the wrist. There is a distressed look to this strap which fits perfectly with a field watch. The clasp is a simple signed pin and buckle. Its a fairly large strap. I had to use the first notch to fit my 6.5 inch wrist.

Overall Impression

If you want a watch with that vintage vibe going on, then this is a good watch for you. This has a great look with a fantastic finish. This is a great watch for any occasion and with that reliable ETA 2824-2 movement you can count on this lasting for a ling time. With price of $825.00USD this is a pretty good deal considering the attention to detail, sporting a nice Swiss movement. If you like what you see then go check it out at carpenterwatches.com.

Tech Specs from Carpenter

• MOVEMENT – ETA 2824-2 SWISS MADE AUTOMATIC
• CASE – 40MM 316L STAINLESS STEEL CASE WITH A SAPPHIRE EXHIBITION BACK.
• WATER RESISTANCE – 5 BAR / 50M WATER RESISTANCE.
• CRYSTAL – DOUBLE DOMED SAPPHIRE CRYSTAL.
• DIAL – MATTE CREAM DIAL WITH C3 HOUR LUME.
• HANDS – POLISHED STAINLESS STEEL / C3 LUME
• FUNCTIONS – DATE COMPLICATION.
• STRAP – GENUINE LEATHER STRAP.

Pro Trek – Casio’s outdoor focused, rugged instrument timepieces seem to be making a comeback, improving features. looks, and toughness for this original player in feature filled outdoors watches. The PRG-330 is one of Casio’s newest Pro Trek Models, and features a triple sensor , coupled with solar charging and a large-number easily readable display.

I spent the last week wearing the PRG-330, including both knocking around town as well as camping in the Colorado Rocky Mountains. My general impression is that the PRG-330 is a tough, more minimally styled outdoors watch that could be the perfect blend of features and longevity, possibly at the cost of a bit of style.  The typically more energy hungry “ABC” functionality is perfectly paired with “tough solar” charging, and the big numbers are a pleasure to glance at.

Stay one step ahead of Mother Nature with the Solar Powered PRG300, incorporating Casio’s new Triple Sensor Version 3 engine. Advanced CASIO original technology has allowed for a 95% smaller direction sensor and 90% reduction in sensor power consumption compared to previous models. Despite their smaller size, the new sensors in this model delivers better accuracy and energy efficiency. This model can measure Altitude in 1m increments (previously 5m) and display compass readings with 60-seconds of continuous. Aluminum Panel Bezel. Design features include a compact, sleek case and soft urethane band for a better fit to the wrist. One-touch access to digital compass, barometric pressure/altitude, and temperature readings keep important information at your fingertips. Everything about these models is designed and engineered to make them essential pieces of outdoor gear.

First Impressions

For an outdoors-centric watch at a decent price, I was impressed with the presentation, fit, and finish – although this is not uncommon for Casio. The watch comes in a small wood-like box, and is presented nicely. When I opened the box, the watch face was blank, but as soon as I gave it some light and movement, it turned on, with the battery indicator reading “M”. The watch is not huge, and actually feels nice on the wrist. On the underside of the piece, in the space where the band interfaces with the watch case, there are nice rubber pads there, making the entire contact surface with my wrist soft and smooth. Additiaonlly, I was glad to see big, bright numbers on the face – very easy to read at a glance.

The big dissapointment with initial impressions is that the backlight is a white LED illuminating from one side of the face. It’s perfectly readable, but a LOT of light spills out the front, it’s very bright, and has a less classy quality than glowing backlights. Out of all features, this glaring white backlight to me is the largest fault of the watch.

On the Wrist

On the wrist, the PRG330 feels good. Pads under the band make it nice and smooth. The size is large enough to be substantial and legible, but not too big on my medium sized wrists. I love the large numbers, and relatively clear display.

I did a good amount of hiking and climbing with the watch, and grew to love the big numbers, big easy to push buttons, and solar power. The compass, altimeter, and barometer are nice features to have – but in practice, I never actually used them except to play around with. Out of all of the sensors, the barometer graph was the most useful, letting me see when the barometer was falling and a storm coming in. I’d love to see Casio’s Multiband-6 technology for atomic timekeeping.

Feature Review

• LED backlight – The “super illuminator” white LED glares too bright for me, and lights up from one side. I’d prefer a glowing one.
• Solar powered – Love this feature – I never have to change the battery or worry about the battery dying in the field.
• Digital compass – Yep, it works. But why are there direction markings on the bezel, without being rotatable? This is confusing.
• Altimeter – Once again, it works – and there’s a memory feature to save altitudes.
• Barometer – I love seeing a barometer graph for assessing weather patterns
• Thermometer – Shows up on the Barometer screen
• World time: 31 time zones (48 cities + coordinated universal time)
• 1/10-second stopwatch
• Battery level indicator – Key for a solar watch, and making sure i have power in the field.
• Power Saving (display goes blank to save power when the watch is left in the dark)
• Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
• Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month – I’d love to have the MultiBand6 feature too.

Feedback

• Switch out the white LED backlight for a green glowing backlight. Those white leds shining from one side glare, and are disruptively bright at night. A dimmer would also be great.
• Why the direction markers on the bezel? If you can’t turn the bezel to lock in a direction, or save a direction, then get ride of that bezel.
• It’s nitpicky, but the ProTrek brand name and logo in general -I hate it. The logo font seems like it’s trying hard to look “outdoorsy”. I’d love a new more modern font to really take these timepieces seriously.

Should You Buy It?

Looking for a well features, sure-to-be-durable outdoors watch that just simply works? Then this could be a great choice. But if you’re looking for a truly refined field instrument, or something to model for instagram photos in, then you might want to keep looking.

Final Thoughts

Casio ProTrek PRG330 is a well-featured ABC outdoor watch, with an easily readable display, solar powered dependability, and comfy wearing,. Except for the glare of the backlight, omission of radio controlled time setting, it’s a great piece for the price.

• Brand & Model: Casio Pro Trek PRG-330
• Price: USD$200
• Who we think it might be for: Outdoors people looking for a reliable wrist instrument. 
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Fix the backlight to be a glowing type instead of side LED type.
• What spoke to me the most about this watch: Big numbers and solar charging.

Specs

• Case and Bezel material: Resin – Aluminum
• Band material: Resin
• LED backlight (Super Illuminator)
• Solar powered
• Digital compass
• Altimeter
• Barometer
• Thermometer
• World time: 31 time zones (48 cities + coordinated universal time)
• 1/10-second stopwatch
• Battery level indicator
• Power Saving (display goes blank to save power when the watch is left in the dark)
• Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
• Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month (with no signal calibration)

We’ve covered a few different types of items that classify as EDC, or every day carry, aside from the ever-present watches.  One area we’ve not focused a whole lot on has been wallets.  Sure, we’ve reviewed a few previously, but those have tended to be of the more traditional, leather style.  There’s nothing wrong with those, but if you focus there, you miss out on a whole different style of wallets that are out there now, that give things a more modern bend.  One such of these is the wallet from Ridge Wallet, and I recently got to spend some time with one of their titanium versions.

With the Ridge Wallet, you’re getting into an area that I loosely categorize as card carriers.  In this, the primary focus in on a way of carrying cards (credit cards, license, membership cards, etc), rather than a traditional wallet that can carry just about anything (and, in the end of the day, end up being over-stuffed).  This doesn’t mean your money needs to be left loose, for those that carry some cash.  Often times, there’s a clip of some sort offered up, and that’s what we’ve got here on the Ridge Wallet we sampled (there’s also an elastic band variant).

When I first opened up the Ridge Wallet, I was struck by just how lovely the finish is on the titanium.  It’s labelled as “Burnt”, but to me it looks more like a sunset.  Regardless, it’s titanium and it’s blue, so what’s not to like?  Before you load anything into this particular wallet, it comes in at 72g.  How much you load into it will determine the final weight (for me, that was right around 120g).  What I noticed right after loading the wallet was the fact that it seemed thicker than the leather wallet I had been using.  Now, this is with the same number of cards (actually, one or two fewer) so this seems paradoxical.  Some of it is from the contraction (with the titanium plates, along with the aluminum liners for RFID blocking), but I think it’s got more than a little to do with how the cards are held.

You see, with a leather wallet, you can have some play in the pockets, so cards may not be stacked directly on top of each other.  And leather bends, as well.  With the Ridge Wallet, the cards are held in rigid alignment (via a strong, but stretchy, use of elastic on three sides), which ends up making a compact brick.  So, yeah, it might feel thicker, but it’s going to be more compact (at 53.8mm x 87mm) than whatever you’re carrying today (and in my case, it’s making me rethink how much I actually need to carry to try and thin it more).  So, it took some getting used to, but get used to it I did.

This was done, of course, by carrying the Ridge Wallet.  Nominal thickness for the wallet was 15mm after I loaded it up; this jumped to 20.6mm when yo measure it at the money clip.  The first thing I (quickly) realized was I needed to be conscious of how I stuck my phone in my pocket.  With the titanium case and metal money clip, I didn’t want to have the glass of the phone banging into that (screen protector or not!)  Fortunately, that’s all I carry in that pocket, so that was the only adjustment I needed to keep track of.

A big question when you’re using a card carrier like the Ridge Wallet is just how, exactly, you access the cards, particularly if you have a bunch jammed in there.  To start with, you’ve got the finger notch at the bottom of the wallet, and you use that to push the card (or cards, if it’s not the front or back one) up.  Then, you can pinch the base of the wallet and that sort of fans things out, giving you access to what’s inside.  Takes some getting used to, but in a few days it’s almost second nature.  For me, I just kept my most used credit card in the front, and then my drivers license in the back, so they were the easiest to access.

Having to tri-fold your cash to fit the money clip on the Ridge Wallet is another adjustment (at least for me).  The wallet that I was using before this one came in had a money clip, but due to the width of the wallet, I was able to just do a simple bi-fold.  You could try that here, I suppose, but then it’s overhanging the edges.  If you’re frequently handling cash throughout the day, this style may not be conducive to your usage.  For me, with the infrequent use of cash (and frankly, that’s probably most folks these days) the clip worked well for me, and was a good compromise between keeping things slim and functionality.

At the end of the day, I was, frankly, surprised by how much I liked the Ridge Wallet.  Going from a leather wallet to the titanium, aluminum, and elastic construction was a bit jarring, but once I got used to it, I rather liked the compact brick I had in my pocket.  It’s just a tidy, solid feel, and I think something like this definitely leads to a more organized pocket carry, no doubt.  You can pick up your own Ridge Wallet for pricing that starts at $72 (for aluminum versions), go to titanium (as we had here) for $105, or go full-on carbon fiber for $115.  If you want something more minimalist, they do also offer card-carrying phone cases for $40, but we’ve not looked at those or their backpacks, so we can’t vouch for them.  However, if they’re constructed like the wallet we saw here, you should be well-served.  ridgewallet.com

• Brand & Model:  Ridge Wallet in burnt titanium
• Price: $105
• Who we think it might be for: You want a solid, compact, RFID-blocking front pocket wallet that will hold your cards as securely as possible.
• Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen?: Yes, indeed. You may still find yourself wanting a slim leather wallet for some occasions, but something like this is a great every day wallet in my belief
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be:  Wondering if there’s a way to make the clip hinged, or sprung, to ease access while still maintaining robustness
• What spoke to me the most about this wallet: Just how compact the wallet actually is, along with the modern industrial look it brings to things

• Holds 1-12 cards without stretching out
• Blocks RFID (wireless theft)
• Replaceable elastic
• Backed by our lifetime warranty
• Grade 5 Titanium | hand torched & hardened
• Weight: 2.5 oz | 86 x 54 x 6 mm

The world of “athleisure” is not one I had figured to be exploring, although there is no doubt that, as a general style category, it is a popular one.  Just take a look around next time you’re out and about, and take note of how many folks you see wearing clothing that you might otherwise think to be appropriate for working out or the gym.  I get it, workout gear is generally comfortable stuff, so folks want to keep on wearing it.  Still, it’s not been something I personally would do.  At least, until the Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead pants popped onto my radar.  

You might be wondering – who is Coalatree?  Not exactly a household name at this point, I can understand the question.  They’re guided by a MTN2CTY (mountain to city) aesthetic, creating clothing that works in the outdoors as well as it does in urban settings.  They’re also committed to being as eco-friendly as they can in their processes, and they use their left over materials to create blankets for the homeless in their hometown of Salt Lake City, UT – so they’re doing good in a variety of ways and manners, that’s for sure.

Now, if I were left to my own devices, I would not have necessarily called the Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead Pants an “athleisure” item, but that’s what the marketing folks called it, so we’ll roll with it. If it were up to me, these simple seem like great camping/outdoors and travel pants.  For starters, they are super lightweight.  This is due to the thinner ripstop nylon used in the construction, which itself has a coating applied to make them water- and stain-resistant.  Now, if you’re thinking back to older nylon windbreakers, you’re thinking that might not be a super-comfortable material for pants.  That specific type may be, but that’s not the case here.

See, with the Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead Pants, it’s an 88/12 mix, with the 12% being comprised of spandex.  Until I took a look at the ScotteVest pants earlier this year, I hadn’t experienced pants with stretch in them, but I have quickly become a fan.  While the SeV pants did it to keep things slim and still enable the carry system, here, it’s all about movement.  Well, and comfort.  With these pants, I was a bit concerned – out of the package, they felt a bit more form-fitting than I’m used to ( also why I ordered a size up, just for leg fit).  Once I had them on, and started moving around, though, that closer fit concern melted away.  The pants were not constricting in the least (between the stretch and the crotch gusset), and with the stretch, there wasn’t any issue of popping things into the deeper front pockets or flap rear pockets.  Sure, it’ll be obvious you’re carrying something in the pockets, but that’s the price of slim fit.  For those looking for a looser fit, there is a version in the works that should, I believe, be out later this year.

The brand bills the Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead Pants as pants that work for the outdoors and the office, but I’m not so sure about that.  Partially due to the slimmer fit, but also due to the drawstrings at the waist and cuffs.  This does allow you to get a comfortable fit, but not office appropriate, at least for me.  What I do think it’s perfectly appropriate for is camping and hiking.  Worried about ticks?  Pull the legs down and cinch those drawstrings.  Going wading in the lake?  Well, pull those cuffs up and don’t worry about needing to roll them, they’ll stay in place.  In short, whatever you’re doing outside, these will move with you and not hold you back.  Then, at the end of the day, you’ll still be comfortable for lounging around the campfire, and be able to keep covered to keep the mosquitos out.

What’s that?  You say you’re not very outdoorsy?  Well, I think you can still find a use for something like the Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead Pants.  In terms of travel pants, the comfort is definitely there, and not needing a belt is one less thing to deal with while going through security, no?  Or, say you want something as a backup or to change into in a pinch, with the pants being able to pack into their own front pocket, these would be easy to throw in a bag or backpack as a backup.  Or even as something to wear around the hotel or a house, in a scenario where might otherwise wear something considered pajama pants.  It would just in something that doesn’t scream out “hey, I’m in my jammies over here”.

So, while I myself wouldn’t be figuring on wearing the $89 Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead Pants (available in blue or brown) to the office, I still think these are a good pant.  They are great for the outdoors (and I plan to put them to good use camping) and travel, and even if those aren’t things you do, you have to admit they’re a much better-looking option than a pair of sweatpants would ever be for heading out and about.  And, as I mentioned, if slim fit isn’t your thing, there is a looser-fit version of the Trailhead pants in the works.  coalatree.com

Review Summary

• Brand & Model: Coalatree Slim Fit Trailhead Pants
• Price:  $89
• Who’s it for? Let’s see – the outdoors person, the traveller, the person looking for something comfy around the house.  So, yeah, just about everyone
• Would I wear them? Yes – these are a great, lightweight option for camping and hiking, and can see using them as such
• What I would change:  It’s not a new idea, since the brand is already doing it, but a looser fit would be appreciated here.  As would be a functional zipper.
• The best things about it:  The combination of lightweight and four-way stretch – super easy to move in, and very comfortable.

• Waterproof and breathable (via a DWR coating)
• 4-way stretch
• Tear-resistant ripstop nylon
  • 88% nylon / 12% spandex
  • Made from recycled materials
• Packable into the front right pocket of the pants
• Features
  • Adjustable elastic / drawstring waistband
  • Ankle drawstrings
  • Water- and stain-resistant
  • Antimicrobial
  • Breathable
  • Packable
  • Ergonomic crotch gusset
  • Bartacked stress points

The 1960s were a beautiful time for watches. Horlogy was in its prime and the great names we know and love today – Rolex, Omega, Cartier – were just one of many watchmakers churning out commodity products to a world that needed to tell the time. Their watches – simple, elegant, and mechanically complex – were the ultimate in mechanical efficiency and design and no one did it quite as well as Seiko. This mechanical golden age ended in the late 1970s with the rise of the quartz watch but Seiko is resurrecting it with their Grand Seiko line of luxury pieces.

Grand Seiko is special for a few reasons. First, it’s Seiko’s haute horlogerie skunkworks, allowing the company to experiment with all the fancy materials and techniques that Swiss watchmakers have worked with for years. The watches are made of precious metals and feature Seiko Hi-Beat movements. These watches “vibrate” 36,000 times an hour or ten times a second. This means that the balance wheel inside the watch is moving back and forth far faster than, say, an Omega Co-Axial 8500/1 series which is clocked at 25,200 vibrations per hour. What this means in practice is that the seconds hand moves with an almost uncanny smoothness.

The rest of the watch I tested, the euphoniously-named SBGH263G, is based on a piece from 1968 that came from Seiko’s mechanical hey-day. The $6,200 watch has a 39mm case and, according to Seiko, is style for maximum elegance. They write:

The dial has elegant and easy-to-see Arabic numeral for the hour mark. The concept color “Shironeri” is a reflection of Japanese tradition. The color and texture of the dial come from the glossy white silk of the outfit worn by the bride in a Japanese wedding. It symbolizes purity and innocence.

This watch is a formal piece for wearing, presumably, to your own wedding. That said, it’s also very reminiscent of 1960s style watches. The size, case shape, and polished hands and numerals all hearken back to a simpler time in watchmaking when everything didn’t have to look like a robot’s goiter or a pie plate.

It is quite small and if you’re used to Panerais or Nixons you’ll definitely notice a grandpa vibe about this piece. Because it is not very complex – that is it does not have any real complications like a stopwatch – it is very pricey. However, knowing Grand Seiko’s dedication to a very lost art of non-Swiss horology, it’s well worth a look.

I’ve been following Grand Seiko for years now and the quality and care the company has been putting into these watches is palpable. This watch is no commodity product. The case is polished to a high sheen and everything – from the screws to the beautiful domed sapphire crystal – is put together with great care. Seiko also makes lower end pieces – my favorite is the Orange Monster – but this is far above that in terms of build quality and price.

Pieces like this Grand Seiko remind us that, before Apple Watches and Fitbits, there was an entire universe of truly striking timepieces made for the absolutely sole purpose of telling the time. I love pieces like this one because they are no frills and yet they are full of frills. The watch is as simple as can be – three hands and a date window without any lume or extraneous buttons – and yet it shows amazing technical skill. It is expensive but this is a handmade watch by a storied manufacturer and it’s well worth the price of admission of you’re a lover of the elegantly antiquated.

The Longines Legend Diver is a new take on a classic diver design, fitting traditional diver performance in a package that’s sleek enough to wear with a suit, functional enough to dive with, and tough enough to wear daily. I spend a week with the Legend Diver, and felt proud sporting it around town.

With over 185 years of rich history, Longines likes to revisit historical pieces that helped it achieve its reputation. An iconic piece from the watchmaking brand’s Heritage line, the Longines Legend Diver Watch is the reissue of a diving watch from 1960. While retaining the codes and design typical of the sixties, Longines has put its current expertise at the service of this contemporary edition to guarantee legibility, waterproofness and practicality. This watch combines high performance and timeless elegance.

On the Wrist

The Legend Diver is a remarkably slick divers watch. On my medium sized wrists, it wears smooth and easily – no major protrusions, and it doesn’t stick up very high. The curved lugs make it wear even closer to the wrist. Although I wasn’t the biggest fan of the asthetics of the rubber/leather strap, it is indeed comfortable to wear. And the sapphire domed crystal has no protection around it -no bezel or guard. For actual harsh diving, that’s going to be an issue, and to me even could present as a safety issues. But as far as the looks go, it gives the pice a style and glimmer that really stands out.

After a week of wear, I got used to the understated good looks of the Legend Diver, and was sad to part with it. If I had this in my personal collection, I’m sure it would be one of the few added to my weekly rotation of watches I wear for myself, not for reviews.

Feature Review

• Time (Hour, Minute, Second) – Clear, readable hands and markings.
• Date – Simple day number. Easy, but not sure if it’s necessary.
• Internal turning diving flange
  • I love that the utility of a divers watch is preserved while keeping the external appearance slick and minimal.
  • No bulky bezel – the diving bezel is hiding on the face.
  • One question though – is that divers bezel adjustable underwater without compromising the case watertightness?

Feedback

• The rough rubber and leather strap works, but in my opinion it’s not the best – stick with the heavy milanese, or slick leather straps.
• Is that divers bezel adjustable underwater without compromising the case watertightness?

Final Thoughts

The Longines Legend Diver is a solid and classy throwback divers watch that compliments any style, and has the grit to keep up in the water too.

• Brand & Model: Longines Legend Diver L3.674.4.50.0
• Price: USD$2,300
• Who we think it might be for: Stylish diver who’s mostly looking for a minimally flashy dress watch with an adventurous story
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Ditch the rubber/leather strap
• What spoke to me the most about this watch: Great looking face and domed crystal in a slick package

Specs

Longines Legend Diver L3.674.4.50.0

CASE

• Shape : Round
• Material : Stainless steel
• Glass : Scratch-resistant sapphire crystal, with several layers of anti-reflective coating on the
  underside
• Case Back : Screw-down case back
• Dimension : Ø 42.00 mm
• Water Resistance : Water-resistant to 30 bar
• Case Specificities : Internal turning diving flange

DIAL AND HANDS

• Colour : Black lacquered polished
• Hour markers : Painted Arabic numerals and indexes
• Hands : Silvered polished hands

MOVEMENT AND FUNCTIONS

• Movement Type : Automatic
• Caliber : L633
• Movement Description : Self winding mechanical movement beating at 28’800 vibrations per hour
  and providing 38 hours of power reserve
• Functions : Hours, minutes, seconds and date
• Chronograph : No

BRACELET

• Bracelet/Strap : Strap
• Material : Leather strap
• Colour : Black
• Buckle : With buckle
• Size : M : Also available with XL strap

I am not normally a fan of dressy watches. Tool watches are my main thing, but when I was contacted by the folks at Thomas Earnshaw and asked if I would be interested in reviewing this watch I was interested. When I saw the pictures of this I was like, wow, this actually look pretty cool – and it looks even better in person. 

The Dial

This watch dial has a lot going on. This is actually the first watch I have review that has a month/day/date complication. Visually, it’s fantastic. You have the cutout showing the beating heart of the movement and above that is the simi-opaque cut out which show off those large date wheels. There is a lot of dimensionality to this dial and it’s just very nice to look at.

The Case

Measuring in at 43mm, this case is a very comfortable size for me. Finishes is quite good as well. I could not find any issues at all. There is one main push pull crown and three pen pushers. The crown is simple to adjust the time; to adjust the month/day/date you use the three pen pushers. This watch is super simple to adjust.

The Movement

I think one of my favorite elements of this watch is the movement. Now they don’t say where this movement comes from, but it is a 29 jewel automatic movement. The decoration looks great with the perlage and blued screws. The rotor is very smooth and is not noisy.

The Strap

I like larger watches – but many times the larger watches tend to come with larger straps. This is totally the case that we have here. By way of illustration, I had to use the very last hole on this strap and it was still loose on my 6.5 inch wrist. This won’t be an issue for many, but for me I would have to get a shorter strap to make it work for me. That all said, the leather is very nice and comfortable to wear.

Overall Impression

If you are in the market for a nice looking dress watch but are on a budget, this watch is for you. The case design and finish is very nice. The dial has complications you would normally see on higher end watches and the movement looks great. This watch is currently prices at a very budget friendly £199 or approx. $256 USD. This is way cheap for all you get here. If you like what you see, go check them out at thomas-earnshaw.com.

REVIEW SUMMARY

Tech Specs from Earnshaw

• COLLECTION: Beaufort Multi Automatic
• MODEL: ES-8083-01
• MOVEMENT: Mechanical Automatic 3 Hands with Day, Date and Month
• CASE MATERIAL: Stainless Steel
• CASE DIAMETER (mm): 43
• CASE THICKNESS (mm): 15.5
• CASE SHAPE: Round
• CASE COLOUR: Stainless Steel
• DIAL COLOUR: Silver White
• BAND: Genuine Leather Strap
• BAND COLOUR: Black
• BUCKLE: Strap Buckle
• BAND WIDTH (mm): 22-20
• WATER RESISTANCE: 5 ATM
• WATCH WEIGHT (g): 100
• WARRANTY: 2 Years Insurance

We here at WWR have often used the phrase “champagne tastes, beer budget” to highlight the sorts of watches that we like to look at.  In many ways, it signifies our commitment to looking at more affordable watches, and of course those that would be considered viable alternatives to those more spendy grails out there –  at least, that is, until you can save to land that whopper.  Today, we’re going to focus on the “beer budget” side of that phrase in a very literal sense.  We’ll be talking about three different options from Rogue Ales.

Now, if you are not a fan of beer, this, of course, will not be the review for you.  For everyone else, this will represent a nice survey of what Rogue Ales has on offer.  If you are not familiar with the brand, don’t worry.  There are a lot of smaller independent brands out there, what with the recent explosion of craft brewers.  This means a lot of choice for us, but it can also be tricky to keep track of who is from where, and what they make.  For Rogue, their distinctives are being based out of Oregon, and actually growing a lot of their own ingredients.  That’s taking locally-sourced, farm-to-bottle in a quite literal sense.  Whether or not that holds water for you, it’s something I like seeing the dedication to in a brand.

First up on the roster for this review is the Rogue Ales Honey Kolsch.  This is, of course, a Kolsch-style beer, albeit one with a twist – it utilizes honey from bees on, where else, their own farm.  As you might expect, this beer has a rather honeyed color to it when you pour it into a glass.  The honey then extends to the scent of the beer, which I noted as a sort of sweet-and-sour mix.  Sounds weird, but think about it.  Honey is sweet, and beer can certainly smell bitter/sour, so that’s what I picked up.  Thankfully, the sweetness was not at all overpowering in the taste of the beer.  There was a slight bitterness, but it had a very nice crisp, clean taste.  What this means is, for me, the Rogue Ales Honey Kolsch is a great summertime beer.  At 5% ABV it won’t overpower you, so it would be a tidy companion for after yard chores or just kicking around at the backyard barbecue.  Given the notes you pick up from this style of beer, this also would be a great one to pair with pizza.

Next up we have a beer that I was very, very curious about – the Rogue Ales Marionberry Sour.  I have never had a sour-style before, and I had never even heard of a marionberry (apparently, the Rogue Farms are just a few miles away from where the first marionberry fields started up).  In the past, when I’ve had anything that combined fruit and beer, it was achingly sweet, so I was curious how a sour would play in.  Technically, this is an American Wild Ale which means it relies on wild-caught yeast.  Sounds weird, but think about it this way – it’s the same way that sourdough bread is done.  For me, it sort of enhances that earthy “farm-to-table” sort of feel I pick up from Rogue.  Add in the locally-sourced berries, and well, that just elevates thing.

When pouring the Rogue Ales Marionberry Sour, you get a cloudy, maroon coloration in the glass, with not much head or carbonation.  Hold it up to your nose, and you definitely get a mild sour scent (much more pronounced than what I noted in the Honey Kolsch).  So, I knew I was up for something different here.  Nothing left but to taste it, right?  Here, you are hit with a fruity flavor at first.  Not strong, not overly sweet, but definitely a berry taste (I’ve never had a marionberry itself, so I can’t say how it translates here).  Then, after that, you do get a sour aftertaste.  The only thing I could even try to equate it to is the memory of the first time I had tried some champagne – it just tasted quite sour to me.  Or maybe it’s just a first-time thing.  I found the Rogue Ales Marionberry Sour to have a fairly flat mouthfeel (again, not super carbonated), and found this one to be a slow sipper, just to control the explosion against the taste buds.  And, at 6.5% ABV, it would make sense to take it easy with this one.  This is a beer that I would say is for your adventurous tastes friends, and would be paired well with something quite simple (say, some grilled salmon) so you’re not overwhelming your tongue.

That brings us, then, to the final of our roguish trio – the Rogue Ales 10 Hop.  This one I save to the last as I felt it was going to be my favorite of the three (and you know what?  It was!)  I may be relatively late to the IPA game, but over the past year or so, it has quickly become my favorite.  I used to be a dark beer guy (the darker the better) but the flavor profiles had started to feel a bit stale and flat.  One-note wonders, if you will.  With IPAs, though, and the variety of hops that be leveraged, can get you such a lovely variety of flavors.  Then add in the range of ABVs they come in, and you can find something that will work for just about whatever.

The Rogue Ales 10 Hop is what is known as an American Double, or Imperial, IPA.  When you get into these, you’re hitting the higher end of the ABV scale, and the Rogue Ales 10 Hop comes in at a health 10.1%.  Add in the larger bottle that this one came in, and you’re setup for a sharing scenario, or something to cap off the day (at least, that’s how I view it).  Pouring it into a glass, you’ll note a bright caramel coloration with a slight auburn tinge to it, and a good bit of haze in the glass.  You do pick up a small bit of honeyed sweetness at the first, but that quickly melts away, and you’re left with the hoppy IPA goodness.  With the higher ABV, you might think that this is one that would hit you quickly, or have a taste that makes you realize that this is a strong beer. I found it quite to the contrary, and thought it to be very smooth and drinkable.  This means you could pair it with just about anything you’d want.  Or with nothing at all.  By that, I mean you could do as I did, and have it just as the “day is done” sort of post-dinner sipper to close the day out.

As you can see here, just from this quick survey, Rogue Ales has quite a variety (and there are even more varieties if you check out their site, or your local shop).  And that’s not to even consider the spirits side of the house.  I think the Marionberry Sour is great for someone who’s looking for a beer unlike anything they’ve had before; the Honey Kolsch is a good option for the guy or gal who tends to American-style lagers; the 10 Hop IPA is, of course, for the fan of the oh-so-tasty IPA.  Wherever your tastebuds take you, you should be able to find the varieties of Rogue Ales at $11.99 for a 6-pack of 12 oz bottles, or $6.99 for a 22 oz.  Drink safe, and drink tasty, my watch-loving friends.  rogue.com

The Nixon Base Tide Pro is a bright, bold, rugged, and useful watch for the hardcore surfer and hardcore style addict. Its plastic body, good water resistance, and custom-tailored surf break tide database make it an easy go-to for spending a summer living by the beach and surfing regularly. However, I live in Colorado, where there is sadly no ocean. I wore the Base Tide Pro daily for a bit, on hikes through the rockies, around town, and in the pool.

The Base Tide Pro delivers a double-overhead dose of durability and functionality. Featuring 500 pre-programmed tides and sunrise/sunset locations inside a tough-as-nails case, the Base Tide Pro is one of the toughest in the lineup.

First Impressions

It’s bright blue! Yep, the Base Tide Pro sent to me is a very bright blue color – and I kinda like it. It’s certainly something I’d wear everyday, but it’s definitely fun for wearing on the weekends, in the water, and on adventures. The watch is big and bold, including a chunky case, big easy to press buttons, and big numbers on the display. I was also struck by the nice feeling rubber strap.

On the Wrist

Because of the way the strap lies on the wrist, the sleek screw-in lugs, rounded curves, and easy to push buttons, wearing the Base Tide Pro is actually a pleasure. Sur it’s big and chunky, but it wears like a smaller watch. Glancing at the time is easy, and pushing buttons – even with gloves on – is similarly easy. The strap is long, so on my medium size wrists that leaves a good amount of strap hanging out. Luckily there’s a very very secure strap keeper, with interlocking elements to keep it nice and secure, even in the waves. Although I don’t live near any of the surf breaks in its database (uh, Colorado…), I actually grew to really like the tide graph – a soothing wave moving slowly all day. Nice.

Feature Review

• Pre-programmed tide information for 550 beaches around the world – Really cool it has such a large database. I have mine programmed for La Push, Washington.
• Time of day (12 hour or 24 hour) – Super easy to glance at the time with the big display
• Day/date – Equally easy to read
• Sunrise / sunset data – Unfortunately, this gets set from the same database as the surf breaks – so I couldn’t set it to Denver (where I live). But if you live near a surf break, this is a nice feature.
• Future and past tide – Yep, it works, from the same database.
• Dual time – Know a good time to call home.
• Alarm – Alarm sound is not super loud, but works. Not enough to wake me up reliably.
• Countdown timer – Yep.
• Wave counter – Essentially the same as the “lap” feature on any other sports chronograph. But still a cool implementation.
• Chronograph – Yep.
• EL backlight – great backlight, and much better than LED backlights IMHO.

Feedback

• Expand the sunrise/set database to more cities not tied to surf breaks.
• Add solar charging if you can?
• Else, not much is wrong with this watch. It works, has cool features for surfing, is fun, and inexpensive.

Should You Buy It?

If you’re spending the summer surfing and living at a surf break, then this would be a really really great option. It’s fun and durable, and could handle a summer in the waves. It’s also a cool fashion statement.

Final Thoughts

The Nixon Base Tide Pro is a fun, durable, and useful surfing instrument easily suited for an entire summer of fun in the waves. Grab it the next time you do a summer beach house rental.

• Brand & Model: Nixon Base Tide Pro
• Price: $125
• Who we think it might be for: Stylish surfers living and breathing surfing for summers on end.
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Add a few more graphical features – a sunset/rise graph, etc.
• What spoke to me the most about this watch: Bold design, focus on surfing. Cool!

Specs

• Watch Movement – Custom digital module with pre-programmed tide information for 550 beaches around the world. Functions include time of day (12 hour or 24 hour), day/date, sunrise / sunset data, future and past tide, dual time, alarm, countdown timer, wave counter, chronograph and an EL backlight.
• Watch Dial – Negative LCD with a printed tide graph.
• Watch Case – 42mm, 100 meter/10 ATM custom TR90 case with hardened mineral crystal, custom water resistant PC pushers, stainless steel screw down case back.
• Watch Band – 24mm custom injection molded silicone band with double locking looper and solid stainless steel buckle with stainless steel screw bar connections.
• Water Rating- 100 METER / 10 ATM

This is not the first G-Shock I’ve owned, and it certainly won’t be the last. It is however, the most blinged out, intense, and heavy G-Shock I’ve worn. The Casio G-Shock GMWB5000TFG-9 is imagined to be the ultimate iteration of the venerable square G series, and comes standard with all of the features, design elements, and heritage of the entire line before it. I wore this blinged monster for a week or two and attracted a ton of envious glances, curious stares, and occasional rolled eyes.

Ever since the first DW-5000C, G-SHOCK has been constantly setting new standards in innovative design, tough structure, and powerful modules. Now to mark the 2018 35th Anniversary of the G-SHOCK come the GMW-B5000, a full-metal G-SHOCK with a Connected engine.

First Impressions

Wow, this thing is gold and shiny.. and heavy! Solid links and an all metal case, in addition to DLC-coated screw down caseback come together to make this a formidable piece. It’s not much bigger than the other square-g series, but it does certainly feel substantial. I was also immediately struck by the super crisp display. for an old-school lcd display, the numbers are crisp and nice.

Also of note, when sizing the metal bracelet, I loved the burly springbars connecting all links – no crappy pins here – this thing is solid metal, and solidly holding springbars.

On the Wrist

For starters.. it’s a super shiny gold metal G-Shock (Stainless steel, with a gold finish). So it gets some looks, especially on my medium sized wrists. It’s heavy, too – those solid stainless steel links and solid metal case give this thing a good amount of gravity.. but it quickly feels comfortable to wear. The fit and finish is nearly perfect, with no real sharp edges.

In day to day use, the watch is a pleasure. Crisp display for easy glances at the time. A few basic features that come in handy, like alarm and countdown timer. And solar power for worry free use, and atomic timesetting so you know it’s always accurate. Additionally, it connects to your phone via bluetooth, enabling a few extra features. In practice, although I did get all of the bluetooth features to work as intended, I didn’t find any of them particularly useful or necessary. I don’t think the bluetooth functionality changes my impression of this watch one way or the other.

Feature Review

• Stainless Steel Solid Band – It’s solid, and heavy. It will last forever.
• One-touch 3-fold Clasp – Love the locking mechanism in the clasp. No divers extension.. but this is not a divers watch. (but it is waterproof to 200m)
• Solar powered – This is a must-have feature for electronic watches. Genius.
• LED backlight (Super illuminator) – It’s so much better than the LED backlight in the ProTrek I reviewed last week. Bright and even, with a nice fade in and out. I still prefer EL backlights, but this LED one is not too bad.
• Time calibration signal reception – LOVE this feature. It sets itself every night, and is perfectly in time with my iPhone, and other internet-connected clocks in my house.
• Mobile link (Wireless linking using Bluetooth®) – Meh. It works, but I never really used the features.
• World time – Works, lots of cities.
• 1/100-second stopwatch – Works just fine
• Countdown timer – Easy to set
• 5 daily alarms (with 1 snooze alarm) – Love that there are 5
• Power Saving (display goes blank to save power when the watch is left in the dark) – Kinda weird that it’s blank sometimes, but if it saves power, I’m fine with it.
• Full auto-calendar (to year 2099) – yep
• Button operation tone on/off – Yep. I keep button tones off.
• Date display (day / month display swapping) – Yep
• Day display (days of the week selectable in six languages) – Yep
• Regular timekeeping: Hour, minute, second, pm, month, date, day – Um, yep.

Feedback

• Add additional bluetooth functionality to make the feature truly useful. Maybe displaying an indicator from the internet, or connection with IFTTT? (Like maybe an indicator if one of my stocks sets off an alarm, or an indicator letting me know how many unready emails I have, or if it’s going to rain, or something like that.
• Swap the LED backlight for OLED backlight.
• In the week wearing it, the gold finish certainly started to show signs of wear and scratching. In the long run, with daily wear, this watch will certainly develop a patina.

Should You Buy It?

Looking for the ultimate square G-Shock, and wanting to looked blinged out and stylish doing it? Then this one is for you. Looking for more of a low key daily beater G-Shock that’s tough as nails but wont break the bank? You can’t go wrong with the G-Shock GWM5610-1.

Final Thoughts

• Brand & Model: Casio G-Shock GMWB5000TFG-9
• Price: USD$600
• Who we think it might be for: Stylish partygoers looking for a blinged out and bulletproof digital.
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Add more bluetooth functions to make the feature worth it.
• What spoke to me the most about this watch: Super bold design, heritage, solar, and atomic.

Specs

• Shock Resistant
• Screw Lock Back
• Mineral Glass
• 200-meter water resistance
• Case / bezel material: Stainless steel
• Solid Band
• One-touch 3-fold Clasp
• Stainless Steel Band
• Solar powered
• LED backlight (Super illuminator)
  Full auto LED light, selectable illumination duration (2 seconds or 4 seconds), afterglow
• Time calibration signal reception
  Auto receive up to six* times a day (remaining auto receives canceled as soon as one is successful)
  *5 times a day for the Chinese calibration signal
  The latest signal reception results
• Time Calibration Signals
  Station name: DCF77 (Mainflingen, Germany)
  Frequency: 77.5 kHz
  Station name: MSF (Anthorn, England)
  Frequency: 60.0 kHz
  Station name: WWVB (Fort Collins, United States)
  Frequency: 60.0 kHz
  Station name: JJY (Fukushima, Fukuoka/Saga, Japan)
  Frequency: 40.0 kHz (Fukushima) / 60.0 kHz (Fukuoka/Saga)
  Station name: BPC (Shangqiu City, Henan Province, China)
  Frequency: 68.5 kHz
• Mobile link (Wireless linking using Bluetooth®)
• World time
  5 World time registerable
  39 time zones (39 cities +coordinated universal time), daylight saving on/off, Home city/World time city swapping, auto summer time (DST) switching
• 1/100-second stopwatch
  Measuring capacity: 00’00”00~59’59”99 (for the first 60 minutes)
  1:00’00~23:59’59 (after 60 minutes)
  Measuring unit: 1/100 second (for the first 60 minutes)
  1 second (after 60 minutes)
  Measuring modes: Elapsed time, split time, 1st-2nd place times
• Countdown timer
  Measuring unit: 1 second
  Countdown range: 24 hours
  Countdown start time setting range: 1 minute to 24 hours (1-minute increments and 1-hour increments)
• 5 daily alarms (with 1 snooze alarm)
• Low battery alert
• Power Saving (display goes blank to save power when the watch is left in the dark)
• Full auto-calendar (to year 2099)
• 12/24-hour format
• Button operation tone on/off
• Date display (day / month display swapping)
• Day display (days of the week selectable in six languages)
• Regular timekeeping: Hour, minute, second, pm, month, date, day
• Accuracy: ±15 seconds per month (with no signal calibration)
• Approx. battery operating time:
  10 months on rechargeable battery (operation period with normal use without exposure to light after charge)
  22 months on rechargeable battery (operation period when stored in total darkness with the power save function on after full charge)
• Size of case : 49.3 X 43.2 X 13 mm
• Total weight : 167 g
• LED:White

Back in March I wrote a preview piece on Anonimo’s new Epurato announced at Baselworld 2018. After meeting with the US Anonimo team at COURTUREtime 2018 in Las Vegas, they were kind enough to send me one for a hands-on review. I’ve had the piece now for a good month and developed some pretty solid impressions of the watch. 

Let’s first address the elephant in the room. Yes, the Anonimo Epurato is shaped very similarly to one quite well known brand out there that starts with “P”. This offends many hardcore “P” fans, but there’s a very good reason for the looks of all of Anonimo’s collections. Following Richemont Group’s acquisition of the Panerai in 1997, and its subsequent move from Florence, Italy to Neuchatel, Switzerland then Panerai CEO Dino Zei jumped shipped and teamed up with Federico Massacesi of Ferragamo to create Anonimo in Florence. As a former Italian naval officer, Zei was able to repeat what originally made Panerai famous, that being to supply time pieces to the Italian navy.

Fast forward 20 or so years and under new Swiss ownership, Anonimo appears to be firing on all cylinders after several years in limbo. While they’re know mostly for their big, burly chronographs and divers (Militare and Nautilo respectively), with the new Epurato the brand is dialing it back just a bit, hoping to appeal to a wider range of buyers.

To start, the Epurato is downsized to a more wearable 42mm. It also foregoes the 4 o’clock crown placement of the Nautilo, and the even more odd 12 o’clock crown placement of the Militare in favor of a more standard 3 o’clock crown. The 3-handed dial is much more conservative than the other two collections, venturing further into the dressy side of the house.

Polished stick indices mark every hour save for 4, 8, and 12 where we find the double-digit Arabics made famous by the Militare. You’ll notice that those three indices form the letter “A”. The sword shaped polished and lumed hour and minute hands extend nicely out to their respective tracks, as does the polished seconds hand. The date window sits down at 6 o’clock, a position that I generally prefer over the more standard 3 o’clock location. I feel that it helps to balance the dial better. Above the date is the word “AUTOMATIC” printed in white, while an applied logo resides just under 12 o’clock with “ANONIMO” under that, also printed in white. While the dial is offered is several different colors, the piece I had in for review was graced with a beautiful light sunray blue shade.

The square cushion case is mostly polished with only the upper surfaces of each corner treated to a brushed finish. Nicely done crown guards ramp up to meet the signed crown at about its mid-point. Speaking of the crown, for me it was the only weak point of the watch. My hands are on the larger size and I found it a bit difficult to manipulate. This may be picking nits, but as good as the rest of the watch is, the crown didn’t quite meet the same bar. A slight increase in diameter would work wonders here.

One of the standout hits of the watch for me is the gorgeous fluted bezel. While thin, its highly polished surface catches the light perfectly from every angle. I’ve traditionally not been a fluted bezel guy, but Anonimo really nailed it here with the Epurato. It takes what would otherwise be a pretty generic Panerai lookalike (at least from a case perspective) and ups the ante considerably. It helps the Epurato successfully transition from a sporty piece during the day, to a dressy piece in the evening.  Helping in those efforts is the 11.9mm overall thickness, allowing the Epurato to gracefully slip under a dress shirt cuff.

Flipping the Epurato over we’re treated to a view of the Sellita SW200 automatic movement through a sapphire exhibition case back engraved with the Anonimo name and logo, “Swiss Made”, and the 5 atm water resistance rating. The aesthetics of the movement are nothing to write home about, but I tend to be a sucker for an exhibition back. The 22mm polished lugs hold a quick release brown leather strap with a wood grain pattern, and the brushed and polished buckle makes excellent use of the Anonimo logo.

So how was the Epurato to live with for a month? In a word, fantastic! Everything about the watch, from the incredible blue dial, to the cushion case, to that incredible fluted bezel worked for me. I found this to be surprising given my relative lack of interest in Panerai over the years. Perhaps it’s the addition of a central seconds hand, something that has always disappointed me about Panerai’s offerings, that does it for me. Maybe it’s the now trademark double-digit Arabic indices at 4, 8, and 12. Or, possibly the fluted bezel is what so draws me to the piece. More than likely it’s the sum of all these parts that adds up to a watch that I’d add to my own collection in a heartbeat. As an aside, many of you probably know that my wife (@perpetualgirl on IG) is also an avid collector, and while she loved the look of the Epurato, at 42mm it’s still too big for her and many other collectors out there. Downsizing from the 44.4mm size of the Nautilo and the 43.4mm size of the Militare is a good first step, it would be great to see Anonimo follow Panerai’s lead by offering a collection that comes in below 40mm.

The Epurato case is offered in several different finishes, including bronze and black DLC, while the dial is offered in no less than ten very pleasing shades. Starting at a respectable $2,480 USD for the stainless steel model I had in hand, and rising to about $3,200 for one of the bronze-cased references, the Epurato should prove to be a very successful entry into the sport casual/dress market for Anonimo. Now, where to find twenty-five hundred bucks… anonimo.com

Watch Overview

• Brand & Model: Anonimo Epurato Reference AM-4000.01.103.W22
• Price: $2,480
• Who we think it might be for: If you’re a fan of the Panerai look, but not of the Panerai price tag.
• Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen? Yes I would. It’s solidly in the top 5 of my current wishlist.
• If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Make the crown slightly bigger for an easier grip.

Technical Specifications from Anonimo

• CASE
  • Material: Stainless steel
  • Size: 42mm, 51mm lug-to-lug
  • Crystal: Sapphire
  • Case Back: Exhibition, screw-down
  • Water Resistance: 5 atm
  • Inter-lug Width: 22mm
• MOVEMENT: Sellita SW200, 26 Jewels
  • Functions: Time, Date, Manual Winding, Hacking
  • Beats Per Hour: 28,800, 4Hz
  • Power Reserve: 38 Hours
• Strap
  • Material: Leather
  • Clasp: Pin Buckle

Back in March, we brought you word of a crazy new entry from Frederique Constant.  They have been in the connected watch game for a while now, but those prior watches all featured quartz movements.  That makes sense, since we’re dealing with a watch they designed to not need to be charged, yet still account for fitness tracking and syncing to your phone.  With the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture, however, we’ve gone into the realm of a connected watch that features a mechanical movement.

That is most definitely what sets the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture apart from any of it’s connected watch competitors.  The mechanical movement behaves just as any other one you’ve experienced – it winds via the rotor (visible via the exhibition caseback) or via the crown winding, and you can set the time and date via the crown.  So far, very familiar.  It’s that pusher over at 9 o’clock that indicates there’s something else going on here.  With that pusher, you can activate various displays on the upper register.  The default is to flip it from the fitness counter to another display (say, world time), but you can use the app to control how things work.  For the default display, I set it to world time, and then a single press of the pusher shows activity level, and a double-press shows the battery life.  Of course, you can also see those in the app (and this watch requires yet another FC app for some reason).

To sync the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture to your phone, you’ll need to fire the app up with bluetooth on on the phone, and then press the pusher to kick off syncing.  This is a peculiarity to the Frederique Constant connected watches, but one that makes sense.  If you’re trying to conserve battery life, you don’t need the watch always broadcasting.  With this method, it only kicks the radio on when you want it to.  As far as the battery goes, FC claims a 7+ day battery life, and I saw life around that range.  Of course, the mechanical portions would continue to work with a dead battery, so that part is of no concern. And really, charging the watch is as simple as placing the watch onto it’s included winder.

While our review loaner of the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture did not include the winder itself, we did have the “pillow” that it uses come along (as that’s how you charge it, particularly as you travel) for the ride.  It’s a simple USB connection, and the battery charges on up.  Again, the winder box would simplify this a good bit.  While it may not matter to the timekeeping if you let the battery die, you would miss out on the activity tracking (simple step counts and sleep tracking).  What’s the more interesting component of this hybrid mashup, to me, are the movement analytics that we get from the mechanical-digital combination.

Sure, there are various aftermarket solutions out there from Lepsi and others, but having this packaged into the watch is a slick bit of packaging and technical chops, and gives us watch folks a view into what’s going on inside the watch.  Or, you know, showing when something is going wrong and the watch is in need of service.  To my usage (particularly as I wouldn’t find myself wearing the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture daily, so fitness tracking is so-so here) I find this the most compelling part of the offering.

Now, I just said I wouldn’t find myself wearing the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture daily.  This is not because there’s something wrong with the watch, quite the opposite.  This has a lot of familiar FC design lineage to it, and wears quite comfortably on the wrist.  It is just that it presents very much as a dress watch, and that sort of limits it a little bit in terms of my own usage. Sure, it would work a few days a week, but for me, daily would be a stretch.  Your usage may vary, of course, particularly if your office dress code is a good bit more formal than mine.

For wearing it, this was done both with a suit and at the office, and it performed just as you might expect.  The hands are narrow, but they stand out in stark contrast to the white dial, and reading the time is breeze (reading the registers is a bit trickier, at least for my eyes).  The lug curvature to the alligator strap kept comfort on the table, and I rather liked the buckle that FC used on the deployant clasp.  Most brands will have a solid implementation of their logo, but here we’ve got one that’s carved out.  It looks sharp, and gives the watch a bit more of a jewelry feel, in line with the luxury target this watch has.

You see, the technical and mechanical wizardry packed into the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture does not come cheap.  For the model we reviewed, price comes in at $3,695, and the range tops out at $3,895.  So, yes, very much into the range of luxury watch buying, for sure.  Fortunately, the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture is more than “just another” connected watch, and uses the smarts that built into the watch for more than the simple things most any brand seems to be able to do.  And hey, if you really don’t care about all of that, you can wear the Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture just like any other mechanical watch, and go about your day.  frederiqueconstant.com/hybrid

• Brand & Model: Frederique Constant Hybrid Manufacture
• Price:  $3,695 – 3,895
• Who’s it for? You’re a mechanical watch “purist” but find yourself curious about connected watches
• Would I wear it? As a dress watch, sure.  As an all day, everyday watch?  Probably not.
• What I’d change: Let’s play with micro rotors, or figure out some way of charging the battery via movement, rather than having to plug it in.  Also, let’s get all of these apps consolidated into a single one.
• The best thing about it:  I found the movement analytics the most interesting piece of the offering

• Reference:  FC-750MC4H6
• Price:  $3,695
• Case
  • Polished stainless steel 2-parts case, diameter of 42 mm
  • Convex sapphire crystal See-through case back Water-resistant to 5 ATM
• Movement
  • FC-750 Manufacture Hybrid caliber, automatic with date adjustable by crown and connected counter activated by pusher
  • Perlage & Circular Côtes de Genève decoration on the movement
  • 33 jewels, 42 hours power reserve, 28’800 alt/h
  • 7+ days battery life
• Dial
  • Silver colour dial with decoration guilloché and black printed indexes Hand polished black hands
  • Date counter at 6 o’clock
  • Connected counter at 12 o’clock
• Bracelet:  Black alligator strap
• Functions
  • Hours, minutes, seconds, date by hand, connected counter
  • Analytics (Measure mechanical movement : Rate, Amplitude, Beat Error)
• Connected functions
  • Activity tracking
  • Sleep monitoring
  • Dynamic coach
  • Worldtimer (2nd time zone + local 24h time)
  • Pusher settings (24h display | Battery indicator | Chronometer | Worldtimer | Activity/Sleep | Workouts | Nap)

Today, we’re reviewing a dive watch.  No surprises there.  As a matter of fact, we’ve previously reviewed a watch from Helm Watches as well, so, again, no surprise.  What is a surprise is how we came about to requesting this watch in for review.  As you know, when we’re looking at boots and shoes, we like to pair up a watch with said footwear.  Well, we’ve got a pair of boots in from Helm Boots (review coming soon!), and it seemed like something from Helm Watches just made sense.  Hence, today’s review of the Helm Vanuatu.

With the Helm Vanuatu, the namesake for the watch is setting you up for what to expect from it.  Vanuatu is an island in the South Pacific with famed coral reefs and even a WWII shipwreck.  So, yeah, that is a fairly hefty name to attach to a watch.  Fortunately for those who are fans of affordable indie dive watches, the one it’s attached to is a hefty one as well.  And you know you’re in for some heft when you’ve got a 42mm stainless steel case paired to a stainless steel bracelet.

That all adds up to a combined weight of 225g for the Helm Vanuatu, which is no mean weight.  That said, if you’re used to small-make divers (as I am) you quickly become accustomed to it.  If you want to cut that down some, though, you could instead swap out the bracelet for the NS1 nylon strap (included) which drops things down to a more manageable 120g.  Or, for that matter, just about any strap you might have to fit into those 22mm lugs (I’m partial to the canvas strap Helm included with our review loaner).  For me, though, I like the heft of a steel diver.  Sure, it may not be appropriate for all shirt cuffs, but it gives you that sense of robustness and ready-for-anything-ness that you want from a sport watch.

The Helm Vanuatu should be up for that adventure, as well.  It carries as 300m WR rating (to ISO 6425:1996 standard), which should keep that Seiko NH35 movement nice and dry.  Just remember to tighten up that screw down crown before you get the watch wet.  And, should you be trying to dive with the Helm Vanuatu, the very solidly-clicking 120-click unidirectional bezel will help you keep track of your time under.  Speaking of – our loaner had the black-coated stainless steel insert, but there are other bezels, and they are supposed to be interchangeable.  So, another option if you want to mix things up on your watch.

For me, though, the black bezel on the Helm Vanuatu was a perfect complement to the matte black dial of the watch.  The lumed indices on the bezel then pick up the massive lumed indices on the dial.  What’s not immediately noticeable (at least, it wasn’t for me) are the small orange pips at the hour markers.  At first, you think it’s just picking up the orange of the second hand – and it is.  But when you check the watch out in the dark, the discerning eye will see those pips are glowing as well.  It’s a small detail, but I like the additional bit of color that hits your eye in the dark.

Writing on the dial is ghosted in on the Helm Vanuatu, so it’s not that jarring (but it’s there if you want to read it).  For the date display, that got snuck in at the 6 o’clock position. Normally, we lambaste brands for not color matching dials and date wheels, but I realize there are cost concerns at play.  And while I wouldn’t mind seeing a dark date wheel here, given how Helm has sized their indices, the date window does a better job blending into the overall look than you might otherwise expect.  Almost makes you wish that wheel was lumed as well!

Suffice to say, the Helm Vanuatu is a good-looking watch.  The matte dial and brushed surfaces keep things from being to flashy, and the watch, overall, just has those rugged “yeah, I’m a dive watch, what about it?” sort of looks.  It may not be for everyone, but it’s a style that I was drawn to when I first started getting into watches, and continue to like to this day.  Wearing the watch around, well, it works as great as you might expect.  The solid links on the bracelet are easy to size with the included screw driver (shame the curvature on the end links doesn’t quite match the lugs), and with drilled lugs, changing straps is simple as well.  This means comfort is easy to establish, even with a watch of this size.  I wore it primarily to the office and on the weekends, and found it to be a solid casual option.

The one wrinkle in the whole scenario here is that the Helm Vanuatu is currently out of stock.  And, given what you’re getting out of this watch at a very, very tasty price of $275 (plus another $30 for shipping), that is not all that surprising.  They’re working to get the watch back in stock, so keep an eye on their site if you’re looking to pick one of these up.  For someone who has yet to pick up an independent dive watch, the Helm Vanuatu has a lot of great characteristics that I think will sell you on this style and approach to a watch.  In other words, pick one up, and you will not be disappointed.  And hey, at this price, you’ll have some extra left over to pick up a few straps to swap in as well.  helmwatches.com

• Brand & Model: Helm Vanuatu
• Price:  $275
• Who’s it for? Anyone who wants a capable diver with solid style at a great price
• Would I wear it? Sure thing
• What I’d change: Let’s shoot the moon, and go for a lumed date wheel
• The best thing about it:  For this, we’re diving into the small details, and it’s those small lumed orange pips

• WHAT YOU GET:
  • Vanuatu 300m Automatic Watch
  • SS1 Stainless Steel Bracelet
  • NS1 Nylon Strap (your choice of 4 colors)
• CASE:
  • Brushed 316L Stainless Steel
  • Integrated Crown Guards
  • Screw Down Caseback
  • Diameter (12H to 6H):  42 mm
  • Diameter (9H to 3H, with crown):  46 mm
  • Lug to Lug:  50 mm
  • Lug Width:  22 mm
  • Height:  14 mm
• CROWN:
  • Brushed 316L Stainless Steel
  • Screw Down
  • Location:  3 o’clock
  • Diameter:  8 mm
• MOVEMENT:
  • Seiko Instruments NH35 (Automatic Mechanical)
  • Hacking and Manual Winding Functions
  • Accuracy:  -20 ~ +40 seconds/day
  • Beats Per Hour:  21,600
  • 24 Jewels
  • Power Reserve:  40 Hours
• DIAL & HANDS:
  • Dial:  Matte Black with Luminescent Hour Markers (Super-LumiNova BGW9 + Dark Orange)
  • Hands:  Luminescent Hour, Minute & Second Hands (Super-LumiNova BGW9)
  • Date Window:  6 o’clock
• BEZEL:
  • 316L Stainless Steel
  • 120-Click, Unidirectional Rotation
  • Diameter:  43 mm
  • Removable / Interchangeable:  Yes
  • Insert:  Stainless Steel with Black PVD Coating and White Markings or Silver with Black Markings
• CRYSTAL:
  • Flat Sapphire with Internal Anti-Reflective Coating
• BAND:
  • Stainless Steel Bracelet and Clasp with Brushed Finish (22 mm Bracelet Tapers to 20 mm at Clasp)
    • Maximum Length:  190 mm / 7.5” (alone);  235 mm / 9.25” (on watch)
    • Minimum Length:  115 mm / 4.5” (alone); 155 mm / 6.125” (on watch)
  • NS1 Nylon Strap with Stainless Steel Buckle and Keeper Rings
• WATER RESISTANCE:
  • 300 m / 30 atm / 990 ft
  • Tested in accordance with ISO 6425:1996
• WEIGHT:
  • With Stainless Bracelet (at full length):  225 grams
  • With NS1 Nylon Strap:  120 grams
• ACCESSORIES:
  • The LS1 and LS2 leather straps, CS1 canvas straps and SS2 stainless bracelet are available separately, and at a discount when purchased with a watch.

Back in December of 2017 I reviewed the Pontvs Nessi, which was the first model from Pontvs. Made from brass, this was was a fantastic vintage style diver. Now, Pontvs has introduced its latest vintage diver watch, the Hydra. This model is made from brass and looks tough. Named after the immortal nine headed water-snake like monster from Greek mythology, the Hydra looks to be one beast of a watch. I was able to get my hands on a review prototype and have kept it on my wrist for a good couple weeks. 

The Dial

I like the simple, utilitarian look of this dial. The face is a textured matte black with brass colored hour makers. All the hands are also polished brass. The hands on this watch are mounted to the very reliable Seiko HN35A automatic movement. There is no date on this model, which is fine with me. There are times I just want to wind up a watch, set the time and go. The look of the dial on this Pontvs Hydra is simple but functional, and really fits the style of this watch.

The Case

Made from naval grade blasted Brass (70% Cu), you are sure to get that great patina over time, which adds character. The entire case is brass with the exception of the case back, and the screw down crown, which are made from stainless steel. Water resistance is a respectable 200m or approx. 660ft. The bezel is a 120 click uni-directional and reminds me of some of the Panerai bezels with minute markers at the 3, 6, and 9 o’clock positions. The bezel rotates with a tight feel and has no play.

The Strap

The Pontvs Hydra comes with a cool Zulu strap with brass clasps. The Hydra also comes with a distressed leather strap which is very cool, but only comes in one size and will not fit a 6.5 inch wrist like mine. That’s ok with me since I really like this Zulu strap. I can wear this watch all day everyday and have no comfort issues. I also like that all the components on the strap are made from the same brass as the case. There are three color options: blue, green, and black. All look fantastic.

The Lume

I absolutely love the lume on this Pontvs Hydra. The hour and minute hands are fully lumed and the tip of the seconds hands is lumed. The bezel and hour markers are also lumed. Charge time for the lume is very fast and it glows bright for a long time.

Overall Impression

Pontvs really did a great job with this watch. It’s rugged looking but has lots of style to it. Build quality is rock solid and everything just feels right. The straps are great looking and very comfortable. I do wish that the leather strap could fit smaller wrists, but that’s ok. For a pre-order price of only $250 USD you get a very cool, well built watch. If you like what you see go and check them out at pontvswatch.com.

REVIEW SUMMARY

Tech Specs from Pontvs

• LIMITED TO 150 PIECES.
• Case Size: 43mm
• Lug to lug: 50mm
• Movement: Automatic NH35A
• Crystal: Sapphire with AR coating.
• Water Resistance: 200mt / 20 ATM
• Case Material: Naval grade blasted Brass (70% Cu) with lume application and screw down strap bars.
• Crown: Steel with lume application.
• Lume: Swiss C1 Superluminova.
• Straps: 24mm NATO with brass buckles and leather with brass buckle.
• Caseback: Blasted steel with Pontvs logo engraving, each piece is numbered.
• Box: Handmade wooden box.